[Public-List] Personal Introduction & Rudder Post Clarification

[Brooke Harwood]

Peter,  Good evening.

Regarding your rudder drawing.. I've attached pictures of the rudder
on hull #8.  I've just removed it for repair.

The gudgeons:
On my keel, the gudgeon is held in place by two bronze rods with the
ends peened effectively riveting it to the keel.
On the rudder the gudgeon is bolted on.

The shoe is held in place by a 4 inch bolt into the keel from a point just
below the rudder pin.  There are also two large screws into the keel at the
forward end of the shoe.

It may be worth your time to get the boat on a travel lift long enough to
see what you are really dealing with.

Brooke Harwood

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 2:34 PM, Peter McEvoy <peter.t.mcevoy at gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Everybody,
>
> This is my first post, so I'll take a minute to introduce myself and my
> Alberg 30, "Friends". I bought the boat on the first of January in
> Sausalito, CA and moved her to Berkeley Marina, where she lives now. I am
> not certain as to the hull number, since the builder's plate is missing,
> however the sail number is 268. My paperwork when I bought the boat
> declared it as a 1965 boat, however after rooting around in my record books
> there is one bill of sale that states the boat is a 1967. If 1967 is
> correct, then it is possible that my sail number 268 is the hull number, as
> that would fit into the ranges listed
> here<http://alberg30.org/boat/numbers.html>
> .
>
> So, it's Peter McEvoy here with "Friends", possibly hull #268. As for
> myself, I work in fine art bronze casting in Berkeley, CA. I'd like to
> start casting boat parts for my boat, and potentially in the future could
> cast Alberg 30 parts for others- let me know if you or others have
> interest. The foundry deals with silicon bronze, which I've read is a good
> choice for most boat parts, including underwater.
>
> My first project will be replacing my rudder. I was sailing with some
> friends on the bay this past Saturday, heeling over nicely on our way back
> from Angel Island, when I felt a snap and the tiller went "limp". I figured
> a shaft of some sort sheared, disconnecting the tiller from the rudder.
> After getting a tow back to the slip, I dipped myself under the transom and
> felt around with my feet- pretty certain the rudder is gone entirely. The
> rudder post seemed to extend down from the keel about a foot with nothing
> around it. My hope is that the rudder shoe and gudgeons are still on the
> hull so that I can copy them with a rubber mold and cast them in silicon
> bronze. Will be diving to check for that soon. Anyway, I had a few
> questions regarding the Alberg rudders.
>
> 1. Can I remove the gudgeons and rudder shoe while the boat is underwater?
> The main risk I see here is junk growing into the threaded fiberglass while
> the parts are removed for copying. I want to copy the parts before haul out
> to avoid excessive yard use fees.
>
> 2. Is silicon bronze suitable for the rudder posts? I've found silicon
> bronze to be much softer than aluminum bronze (marine bronze). I read that
> aluminum bronze, however, can "de-aluminize" underwater unless you add 4%
> nickel to the mix. I'd like to go with all silicon bronze, since I have
> easy material access there.
>
> 3. I've attached an image to see if my understanding of the rudder post
> positioning is correct. I'm mainly confused about the long upper post with
> the two bends- why doesn't the lowermost section go 90 degrees around the
> rudder? It seems incorrect to have it going toward the middle pintle.
>
> Sorry for the long post! I figure it's better than 4 replies of
> clarification.
>
> -Peter McEvoy
>
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