[Public-List] What size fitting for new teak cap rail
Mike Lehman
sail_505 at hotmail.com
Wed May 23 05:20:00 PDT 2012
Glen,
I pretty sure that I used #10 screws when I did this job many years ago. The
wood was specifically chosen for its tight even grain. Even then, I broke a
piece trying to bend it. The most severe bend is from the shrouds forward. I
used 5200 to bed the rail. I also drilled out the pop rivets, opened the
deck hull seam slightly and filled the seam with 5200. No leaks ever! What
prompted all this work for me was a collision with another Alberg in a race
in high wind when he lost control of his boat (spinnaker up in 35 knots) and
t-boned me on the port side about 4 feet back from the bow. The collision
opened the deck/hill seam from the point of collision all the way back to
the jib track and the deck was lifted about 3". You could go below, climb
over all of the cabinetry that was laying on the cabin sole and look out
through the deck/hill seam. We finished the race, but on a starboard tack
the water would pour in so we would flip over to a port tack to pump the
bilge. BTW, we were protested from the race because the race committee said
that my #1 priority was to display the red protest flag...since it took
about 10 minutes to determine if the still seaworthy, I didn't get the flag
up in time and was disqualified.
These are strong boats!
-----Original Message-----
From: Glennb
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:13 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: [Public-List] What size fitting for new teak cap rail
hello all,
I am wondering what size screws to use to fasten a new teak cap rail onto
the bulwarks I replaced my old toe rail with?
the new bulwarks are 3 3/4" high, 11/8" thick, and I have milled some 12'
teak boards into 5/8 x 2" cap rails. the problem is teak is not very bendy
so doesn't accept the curvy lines of the Alberg 30 very well, particularly
amidships, it twists and jumps up and turns over pretty easily because of
stress in the wood fibers, and fractures and breaks if bent to much,,, so
lots of stress along the grain of the wood.
I steam bent the milled pieces to mitigate the curve of the hull pretty
well, but am concerned about what size wood screw to use to fasten the cap
rail down onto the bulwarks. I have done one segment of cap rail with #8 x
11/4" wood screws, leaving about 7/8" embedded in the bulwrk and the top
portion of the screw countersunk half way into the 5/8 cap. But the # 8
screws seems a little puny!
if I use a larger counter sunk woodscrew, say a #10 would that weaken the
cross section of wood across the cap rail to much at each screw, (12 to 16"
spacing along the rail) or if I stay with the smaller #8 screw, will that be
to little holding power once the ocean slams into the already spring loaded
teak rails??
I think I am inclined to go with a larger #10 screw, but would appreciate
any advice (tomorrow I install the second length)
P.S. Also, thoughts on screwing and glueing the teak more or less
permanently to the bulwark with epoxy, or just bed it with dolphinite
bedding compound... The bulwarks are sapelle, a form of African Mahogony,
hence susceptible to rot at some point..
thanks much!
Glenn P.
dolce 318
Sent from my iPad
On May 22, 2012, at 6:15 PM, "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> Thicker, heavier, is 'more gooder' ; )
>
> Used it on our A-30, now on our A-37, makes a difference.
>
> ATB
>
> John
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30 at fongemie.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 8:48 PM
> Subject: [Public-List] What size coax for vhf?
>
>
>> Anyone know anything about coax & vhf radios? I'm replacing the rotten
>> old
>> wire in the mast. RG-8x or RG-213. Is R-213 overkill for our boats?
>>
>> I've seen the numbers for signal loss, but it means nothing to me. I keep
>> the radio about two feet from the galley bulkhead so i'm estimating 50
>> feet
>> to the top of the mast.
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