[Public-List] Sealants

[j_l_brown]

I use 4000uv for anything exposed to sun.  Doesn't last forever, but it looks clean and easy to tell when it fails.  Easy to remove and replace, fast curing too.  My main gripe with 5200 is that it takes a long time to cure(two days minimum from my testing), and it doesn't cure all the way through.  
I've removed it from many boats including my own and often it is a goopy unpleasant mess to clean.  I am on the lookout for a good  flexible two part sealant to ensure curing all the way through.  I have some tubes of an aerospace version, but it's 70$ a tube, and one shot usage, once you crack the catalyst tube the whole thing cures.  
 I'm thinking one of the plexus structural adhesives might work,  but I haven't had time to talk to a rep there yet.

I would use 5200 where you want a strong adhesive sealant and it will be no thicker than 1/4" measuring from a side exposed to air while curing but that won't be exposed to uv.  So not a wide range of applications for it.  Sikaflex works well but I always get covered in it and it never seems to smooth out quite as cleanly.


Jeremy

Sent from Samsung MobileGordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:I'd suggest you consider 5200 as a powerful glue first, caulking second. 

I like Lifecaulk for bedding jobs my fiberglass boat, Sikaflex for the wooden one 

Gord. #426 Surprise 


On 2012-10-26, at 11:17 AM, "randall weatherspoon " <rlwspoon at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I have all new thru hulls and chain plates to install and  I was wondering
> what sealant would be the best. Not wild about 5200 as it seems it would be
> hard to work if a leak developed.
> 
> Also what to put on new stuffing box hose to the stern tube?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Randy -  Marisel #385
> 
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