[Public-List] Is the mast beam glued in place?

[Jeffrey]

Thanks Glenn.  What did you use for wood in your new beam? I too plan on
making my new beam a bit oversize in height. Did you beef up the vertical
support posts that go from the hull up to the beam?

I was thinking about using white oak, but I'm leaning towards Saeple since
has a better track record for laminating.

Has your new beam proved to be solid?

Thanks,


Jeffrey Fongemie

Seagrass
Alberg 30 #116
Boothbay Harbor Maine





On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 1:07 AM, Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jeff, mine was glassed to the cabin sides at the ends and through bolted
> to the bulkhead.  Not glued in otherwise.  I had to take a disk grinder to
> cut out the FG tabing at the ends of the beam to get it out.  Bit of a hard
> job due to cramped space in the head.  Bigger pain putting the new beam
> back in as the forward cabin edge, behind the beam is curved.  So had to
> shape the squared edge and ends down to get a flush fit up under the cabin
> top- many cuts and fits to put it in!  BTW, I also squirted a tube of 5200
> into the small gap between the top of my new beam and the cabin top.  This
> made a nice bearing surface to distribute compression forces between the
> beam and cabin, in places where it isnt quite a tight fit.
>
> Also I bolted the deck plate through the cabin top with 4 bolts and
> backingplates. Also two bolts,through the beam.
>
> NOTE: make sure you drill the two beam holes as perpendicular as possible
> - with the beam bolted inplace to the bulkhead.  One of my bolt holes was a
> it canted to one side and I had never ending trouble tightening the nut
> inside the countersunk hole in my beam.  I went with oversized 4 x 6 beam
> dimensions so needed to recess the nuts.  Maybe wont be such a big deal if
> you  stay with original size beam.  Nevertheless this was my big gottcha on
> the project.
>
>
> also,  The original setup had the deckplate screwed into the fiberglass
> with machine screws. Very inadequate as the threads in the FG were worn and
> loose.  When I reinstalled, the bolts leaked, so pulled them and reset and
> recalked liberally a second time with dolphinite.  Havent had any water
> intrusion in 5 years know.
>
> Btw i used individual two part blue seas plastic  deck mounts - the kind
> with rubber seal in the center- to run my wiring below. One for each wire,
> except one fitting takes two wires, wrapped in electrical tape.  Wouldnt
> put the two wires together again if I was doing it over.  To hard to stop
> leaks with two wires. Also I would use round wire again, not the cheaper
> flat stuff.  Install is quick and permanent with round wire.  I made an
> excessively long tail to run wiring down into the cabinet behind the head
> and connect to a bus bar for mast removal.  The first time I rewired, the
> tail wasnt long enuf and i had never ending trouble trying to stretch short
> ends to connect.  Finally pulled new longer wire last spring. What a relief!
>
> Glenn
> Dolce 318
>
> Glenn
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:53 AM, Jeffrey <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyone remove the laminated mast beam in a pre-liner boat? Is it glued to
> > the bulkhead and/or the fiberglass skin of the cabin top?
> >
> > Just looking to see what kind of battle I'm in for!
> >
> > -jeff
> >
> >
> > Seagrass #116
> > Boothbay Harbor Maine
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-- 
______________

Jeffrey Fongemie

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>

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