[Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint

Tue Dec 24 14:19:44 PST 2013

Hi Folks,

Jeff,
   I agree that something like a polysulfide is the right stuff to bed the
rails. It never occurred to me to use epoxy to bed the rails so I wasn't
clear...

Michael,
   I'm looking to make sure that my hull to deck seal is water tight. I'm
going to guess that my rigger was talking about using epoxy between the
hull and deck. He has also suggested going to an aluminum toe rail.

Glenn,
   I would Really like to see some pictures of your setup. I've always liked
the idea of the bulwarks but couldn't conceive of how to make it work on an
Alberg and not screw up the lines.

Something I saw on a wooden boat last year that looked very functional was
basically a series a boards that were about 4" high and raised off the deck
enough to provide drainage. I had forgotten about that approach. It's
another that might be hard to pull off aesthetically...

Regards,

Greg

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> Today's Topics:
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>    1. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Jeffrey)
>    2. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Michael Grosh)
>    3. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Michael Connolly)
>    4. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Glenn)
>    5. Inspecting a wooden rudder (gregr at nethere.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 15:45:48 -0500
> From: Jeffrey <fongemie at gmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> 	<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAMRY+95xhFw1ZuUPWMaHqc9NoNL5uSFBmT0tj_EWk4p7O2Xcbw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Greg,
>
> I would think that epoxy or 5200 would be the worst choices. You don't
> really need any adhesion, that's what the bolts do. If you used epoxy or
> 5200, in the future when anyone needed to remove the rails (and it will
> happen)  fiberglass and/or the wood rails would be destroyed.  Nothing is
> permanent on a boat.
>
> I used Boatlife Life Caulk, a polysulfide.  Very little adhesive
> strength,
> but long lasting and flexible.  Dolphinite is an old standby for this
> kind
> of thing. I'm sure it would work great too:
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4400
>
> jeff
>
>
> Jeffrey Fongemie
>
> Seagrass
> Alberg 30 #116
> Boothbay Harbor Maine
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 2:44 PM, <gregr at nethere.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I'm looking at pulling up my rails and re-sealing the deck to hull
> joint.
> > I've read the write up on the web page but it's for a later model. Ayla
> is
> > a pre-liner boat built in '64. I plan to use 316 screws and Nyloc nuts.
> > 1. The rails are in decent shape. Any tips to help me save them?
> > 2. My rigger has suggested epoxy. Others have suggested 5200. Any
> > recommendations?
> > 3. Anything to watch out for?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Greg
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> ______________
>
> Jeffrey Fongemie
>
> <http://instagram.com/jfongemie>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 18:02:46 -0500
> From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> To: alberg 30 <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAO99GuEPksnK9XAMT5w-pyPXfHGi1GaEtajC+sUPTtGNB3M8Dg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I replaced my rails on #220 (1967) a few years ago. The rail looks like
> teak, but is not. The outside of the wood was decent ( probably from
> being
> oiled/varnished over the years) the interior was basically powder - which
> explained the leaking joint, in my case.
> I removed and prepped, filling in the original bolt holes ( I couldn't
> figure out how to get holes in the New teak to line up with the old
> holes).
> Fabricating and installing new teak was beyond my capabilities, so it was
> a
> boatyard install. $8500.00. At least there is a target you can aim for.
> I think it was boat caulk used for sealant, which I provided.  5200 has a
> very limited number of uses on a boat, in my opinion.
> Michael Grosh
> 220
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 00:16:54 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> 	<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
> 	<966209592.2506276.1387844214024.JavaMail.root at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
>
>
> Greg,
>
> Are you speaking of resealing the deck to hull joint as you mentioned or
> just re-bed the teak toe rails?
>
> Saving the old toe rails is dependent on what was used to bed them
> previously. A heat gun set on low and a thin blade will usually work well
> to lift them after ALL fasteners are removed.
>
> Michael #133
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: gregr at nethere.com
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 2:44:28 PM
> Subject: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm looking at pulling up my rails and re-sealing the deck to hull joint.
> I've read the write up on the web page but it's for a later model. Ayla
> is
> a pre-liner boat built in '64. I plan to use 316 screws and Nyloc nuts.
> 1. The rails are in decent shape. Any tips to help me save them?
> 2. My rigger has suggested epoxy. Others have suggested 5200. Any
> recommendations?
> 3. Anything to watch out for?
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 23:38:19 -0800
> From: Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> 	<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID: <08A72127-30AE-449F-993E-4559A735BF6E at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
>
> I had a similar experience to Michael, although my toe rails were
> definitely teak.  Just reduced in height and thickness over the years by
> to many sandings.  The wood looked basically good, but had started to rot
> inside would not have lasted another 5 to 10 years, so I replaced with 4"
> x11/4" Sapele bulwarks with teak cap rails.  The biggest problem removing
> the original rails in my case was removing the wooden plugs.  I was not
> careful enough and the surrounding toe rail splintered put and ruined the
> original surface, requiring new toe rails, which I replaced with the
> bulwarks.  I discovered bad wood as ai removed the various sections.  An
> alternate to replacing with teak or mahogony is to use pre fabricated
> aluminium toe rail rolled to the curve of the hull.  There are several
> types available on the market these days. Usually samples are in the
> various marine supply catalogs.
>
> Glenn Brooks
> Dolce 318.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 23, 2013, at 3:02 PM, Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I replaced my rails on #220 (1967) a few years ago. The rail looks like
> > teak, but is not. The outside of the wood was decent ( probably from
> being
> > oiled/varnished over the years) the interior was basically powder -
> which
> > explained the leaking joint, in my case.
> > I removed and prepped, filling in the original bolt holes ( I couldn't
> > figure out how to get holes in the New teak to line up with the old
> holes).
> > Fabricating and installing new teak was beyond my capabilities, so it
> was a
> > boatyard install. $8500.00. At least there is a target you can aim for.
> > I think it was boat caulk used for sealant, which I provided.  5200 has
> a
> > very limited number of uses on a boat, in my opinion.
> > Michael Grosh
> > 220
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 10:41:04 -0800
> From: gregr at nethere.com
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: [Public-List] Inspecting a wooden rudder
> Message-ID: <1387910464.52b9d540cb888 at webmail.nethere.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Ayla is hull #43 so I'm guessing she has one of the original wooden
> rudders.
> It was just the other night as I went through all the maintenance items
> on
> the site that I learned early boats had wooden rudders so I've never
> checked. I'll find out in January when I haul out. As preparation for
> that
> I'd really appreciate any tips on how to inspect and determine the
> condition of a wooden rudder.
>
> Also, I remember a series of posts by someone that built a new rudder.
> I'd
> love to hear from them about the experience and any pitfalls they ran
> into.
>
> As always, THANKS for all the help!
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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