[Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
Rod
weatherhelm at hotmail.com
Sat Dec 28 10:48:36 PST 2013
Well now the rest of you know that Gord is just a big kid.
Merry Christmas all.
Rod
-------- Original message --------
From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
Date: 28-12-2013 1:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
Hello gang -
The bolts which secure the genoa tracks are crucial to the structural
integrity of the entire boat... The bedding, whatever was used, is not
crucial except with regards to keeping water out.
Just back in the house after a false alarm with regards to the freighter in
our port. I heard it giving a long hoot on it's horn which would, I
thought, indicate it might be about to bull it's way out of the harbour
through the early ice we've got. That's a bit of a spectacle, so one of my
sons and I jumped into the car and shot over to the vantage point.
Alas, there lay the FRONTENAC, a 26,000 ton laker, engines idling, radars
spinning, figures moving about on the bridge....but the ship herself not
moving.
I'll have some soup for lunch and keep listening...
Gord #426 Surprise
On 28/12/13 12:52 PM, "Michael Connolly" <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:
> Greg,
I honestly don't know where or how the deck to hull joint is
> configured. The issue will be getting any surfaces to be either adhered or
> sealed clean enough for either the epoxy to adhere or the 5200 to seal against
> the mating surfaces. I have been told by many that most leaks are from the
> bolt holes holding the toe rails in place. This appears to be where the leaks
> originate on my boat. Makes sense because some of the same bolts also hold the
> sail tracks in place. I would think that all the pulling and tugging on the
> tracks would make any bedding compound fail sooner than if it was asked to
> just bed the toe rails alone.
My thought would be to place an o-ring around
> each bolt in addition to the bedding compound. Then perhaps after the bedding
> compound failed the o-ring might provide some further water penetration
> protection.
What I don't know is how much of the structural design integrity
> was based on the bolts and how much on whatever adhesive was used to join the
> two together? Does anybody have a guess as to that answer? The answer would be
> important when considering replacing the teak toe rails with an aluminum
> extrusion. Not knowing the answer I would certainly use the same bolt mounting
> system for the aluminum toe rail as was used for the teak.
Michael #133
>
----- Original Message -----
From: gregr at nethere.com
To:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 5:19:44 PM
>
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
Hi Folks,
>
Jeff,
I agree that something like a polysulfide is the right stuff to
> bed the
rails. It never occurred to me to use epoxy to bed the rails so I
> wasn't
clear...
Michael,
I'm looking to make sure that my hull to deck
> seal is water tight. I'm
going to guess that my rigger was talking about
> using epoxy between the
hull and deck. He has also suggested going to an
> aluminum toe rail.
Glenn,
I would Really like to see some pictures of
> your setup. I've always liked
the idea of the bulwarks but couldn't conceive
> of how to make it work on an
Alberg and not screw up the lines.
Something I
> saw on a wooden boat last year that looked very functional was
basically a
> series a boards that were about 4" high and raised off the deck
enough to
> provide drainage. I had forgotten about that approach. It's
another that
> might be hard to pull off aesthetically...
Regards,
Greg
Quoting
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> ======================================================
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>
>
> Today's
> Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Jeffrey)
> 2.
> Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint (Michael Grosh)
> 3. Re: Re-Sealing
> the Deck to Hull Joint (Michael Connolly)
> 4. Re: Re-Sealing the Deck to
> Hull Joint (Glenn)
> 5. Inspecting a wooden rudder (gregr at nethere.com)
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 15:45:48 -0500
> From: Jeffrey
> <fongemie at gmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List]
> Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
>
> <CAMRY+95xhFw1ZuUPWMaHqc9NoNL5uSFBmT0tj_EWk4p7O2Xcbw at mail.gmail.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Greg,
>
> I would
> think that epoxy or 5200 would be the worst choices. You don't
> really need
> any adhesion, that's what the bolts do. If you used epoxy or
> 5200, in the
> future when anyone needed to remove the rails (and it will
> happen)
> fiberglass and/or the wood rails would be destroyed. Nothing is
> permanent
> on a boat.
>
> I used Boatlife Life Caulk, a polysulfide. Very little
> adhesive
> strength,
> but long lasting and flexible. Dolphinite is an old
> standby for this
> kind
> of thing. I'm sure it would work great too:
>
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4400 >
>
> jeff
>
>
> Jeffrey Fongemie
>
> Seagrass
> Alberg 30 #116
> Boothbay
> Harbor Maine
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 2:44 PM,
> <gregr at nethere.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I'm looking at pulling
> up my rails and re-sealing the deck to hull
> joint.
> > I've read the write
> up on the web page but it's for a later model. Ayla
> is
> > a pre-liner
> boat built in '64. I plan to use 316 screws and Nyloc nuts.
> > 1. The rails
> are in decent shape. Any tips to help me save them?
> > 2. My rigger has
> suggested epoxy. Others have suggested 5200. Any
> > recommendations?
> > 3.
> Anything to watch out for?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Greg
> >
> _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support
> your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> >
> Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
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> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> ______________
>
> Jeffrey Fongemie
>
>
> <http://instagram.com/jfongemie>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 18:02:46 -0500
> From: Michael Grosh
> <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> To: alberg 30 <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
>
> <CAO99GuEPksnK9XAMT5w-pyPXfHGi1GaEtajC+sUPTtGNB3M8Dg at mail.gmail.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I replaced my rails on
> #220 (1967) a few years ago. The rail looks like
> teak, but is not. The
> outside of the wood was decent ( probably from
> being
> oiled/varnished
> over the years) the interior was basically powder - which
> explained the
> leaking joint, in my case.
> I removed and prepped, filling in the original
> bolt holes ( I couldn't
> figure out how to get holes in the New teak to line
> up with the old
> holes).
> Fabricating and installing new teak was beyond
> my capabilities, so it was
> a
> boatyard install. $8500.00. At least there
> is a target you can aim for.
> I think it was boat caulk used for sealant,
> which I provided. 5200 has a
> very limited number of uses on a boat, in my
> opinion.
> Michael Grosh
> 220
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 00:16:54 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael
> Connolly <crufone at comcast.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List]
> Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
>
> <966209592.2506276.1387844214024.JavaMail.root at comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
>
>
> Greg,
>
> Are you
> speaking of resealing the deck to hull joint as you mentioned or
> just
> re-bed the teak toe rails?
>
> Saving the old toe rails is dependent on what
> was used to bed them
> previously. A heat gun set on low and a thin blade
> will usually work well
> to lift them after ALL fasteners are removed.
>
>
> Michael #133
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: gregr at nethere.com
>
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013
> 2:44:28 PM
> Subject: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm looking at pulling up my rails and re-sealing the deck to
> hull joint.
> I've read the write up on the web page but it's for a later
> model. Ayla
> is
> a pre-liner boat built in '64. I plan to use 316 screws
> and Nyloc nuts.
> 1. The rails are in decent shape. Any tips to help me save
> them?
> 2. My rigger has suggested epoxy. Others have suggested 5200. Any
>
> recommendations?
> 3. Anything to watch out for?
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support
> your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013
> 23:38:19 -0800
> From: Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> To: Alberg 30
> Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint
> Message-ID:
> <08A72127-30AE-449F-993E-4559A735BF6E at comcast.net>
> Content-Type:
> text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I had a similar experience to
> Michael, although my toe rails were
> definitely teak. Just reduced in
> height and thickness over the years by
> to many sandings. The wood looked
> basically good, but had started to rot
> inside would not have lasted another
> 5 to 10 years, so I replaced with 4"
> x11/4" Sapele bulwarks with teak cap
> rails. The biggest problem removing
> the original rails in my case was
> removing the wooden plugs. I was not
> careful enough and the surrounding
> toe rail splintered put and ruined the
> original surface, requiring new toe
> rails, which I replaced with the
> bulwarks. I discovered bad wood as ai
> removed the various sections. An
> alternate to replacing with teak or
> mahogony is to use pre fabricated
> aluminium toe rail rolled to the curve of
> the hull. There are several
> types available on the market these days.
> Usually samples are in the
> various marine supply catalogs.
>
> Glenn
> Brooks
> Dolce 318.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 23, 2013, at 3:02
> PM, Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I replaced my rails on
> #220 (1967) a few years ago. The rail looks like
> > teak, but is not. The
> outside of the wood was decent ( probably from
> being
> > oiled/varnished
> over the years) the interior was basically powder -
> which
> > explained
> the leaking joint, in my case.
> > I removed and prepped, filling in the
> original bolt holes ( I couldn't
> > figure out how to get holes in the New
> teak to line up with the old
> holes).
> > Fabricating and installing new
> teak was beyond my capabilities, so it
> was a
> > boatyard install.
> $8500.00. At least there is a target you can aim for.
> > I think it was boat
> caulk used for sealant, which I provided. 5200 has
> a
> > very limited
> number of uses on a boat, in my opinion.
> > Michael Grosh
> > 220
> >
> _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support
> your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> >
> Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013
> 10:41:04 -0800
> From: gregr at nethere.com
> To:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: [Public-List] Inspecting a wooden
> rudder
> Message-ID: <1387910464.52b9d540cb888 at webmail.nethere.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Ayla is
> hull #43 so I'm guessing she has one of the original wooden
> rudders.
> It
> was just the other night as I went through all the maintenance items
> on
>
> the site that I learned early boats had wooden rudders so I've never
>
> checked. I'll find out in January when I haul out. As preparation for
> that
>
> I'd really appreciate any tips on how to inspect and determine the
>
> condition of a wooden rudder.
>
> Also, I remember a series of posts by
> someone that built a new rudder.
> I'd
> love to hear from them about the
> experience and any pitfalls they ran
> into.
>
> As always, THANKS for all
> the help!
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support
> your Association:
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>
> Please support them.
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>
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> of Public-List Digest, Vol 2721, Issue 1
>
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