[Public-List] Back stay

[Bob Crinion]

If using one of the zip cut blades or regular grinder disk in mini
grinder, be cautious, wear face, neck, hand protection and coveralls.
Have you ever seen a chunk of blade come away from one of those disks?
Nasty...

Dremel may be slower and less dangerous, wear safety gear too.

-bob

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Glennb
Sent: January-30-13 4:29 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay

You could also use a 4" grinder with a thin metal cutting disk,  a bit
more robust than  the dremel and one disk lasts forever.  Plus one gets
to enjoy the zen of ship building - magnificent showers of flaming metal
sparks shooting out from each cut! 



Sent from my iPad

On Jan 30, 2013, at 11:52 AM, "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Agree completely with everything Mike Lehman has written.
> 
> Did all Sunstone's shrouds with 1 dremel disc, on 316 SS Dyform Wire
onto Norsemen fittings.
> 
> Note, use some plain masking tape at the cut to make sure the wire
doesn't splay during the cut. The thin large diameter dremel fabric
imbedded disc is the best.
> 
> Best of luck
> 
> John
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Lehman" 
> <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay
> 
> 
>> "Cut the stay at the tape with a
>> hacksaw"
>> 
>> The absolute best tool for cutting SS wire is the dremel tool with
the proper disc.
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>> -----Original Message----- From: Gordon Laco
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:33 PM
>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay
>> 
>> What I've had clients do in the past is measure as described.... Then

>> have the new stay made a foot or so longer than you expect to need it
to be.
>> Have the rigging supplier swage on the top end (make very sure you 
>> know the type of end you need - fork or eye - and the pin diameter)
>> 
>> To install the stay, run a couple of halyards back to solid points on

>> the deck, then go up the mast and remove the backstay.  After 
>> lowering it to the deck, install the new one, and come down.  Once on

>> deck again, hold the new backstay to the extended old backstay 
>> turnbuckle and mark where the end of it needs to be with tape.  
>> visualize  Cut the stay at the tape with a hacksaw and install a
stalok or similar swageless terminal.
>> 
>> Tension up the new backstay - put the halyards away and the job's
done.
>> 
>> The only dodgy part of this operation is going up the mast while 
>> jury-rigged halyards are staying it from aft.  This isn't dangerous
in itself, but the
>> consequences of somebody releasing the wrong line etc are not good.
If you
>> have a mast crane at your club/marina, use that as a back up for
safety.
>> 
>> Gord #426 Surprise
>> 
>> 
>> On 30/01/13 2:26 PM, "Jonathan Whittingham" <whittle at shaw.ca> wrote:
>> 
>>> If you can't wait, go up mast with a piece of non stretch string, 
>>> attach to top end, descend with other end in a loop, measure what 
>>> you need , mark it and pull the loop back from the deck. Measure the

>>> mark.Jonathan. (Or send a small child up instead!)
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bill Ydel
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 10:25 AM
>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>> Subject: [Public-List] Back stay
>>> 
>>> Since I am taking the Mast down to replace the sheave I will also 
>>> replace the back stay. Does anyone have the specifications for that 
>>> stay so I can order it before I take the boat to the yard.
>>> 
>>> Thank you
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>> SallyB #441
>>> 
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>> 
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