[Public-List] Back stay

[John Birch]

Boris & Natasha say, two sticks dynamite, give to Moose & Squirrel ; )


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Laco" <mainstay at csolve.net>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay


> This is getting more and more violent....
>
>
> On 30/01/13 3:29 PM, "Glennb" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> You could also use a 4" grinder with a thin metal cutting disk,  a bit 
>> more
>> robust than  the dremel and one disk lasts forever.  Plus one gets to 
>> enjoy
>> the zen of ship building - magnificent showers of flaming metal sparks
>> shooting out from each cut!
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jan 30, 2013, at 11:52 AM, "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> Agree completely with everything Mike Lehman has written.
>>>
>>> Did all Sunstone's shrouds with 1 dremel disc, on 316 SS Dyform Wire 
>>> onto
>>> Norsemen fittings.
>>>
>>> Note, use some plain masking tape at the cut to make sure the wire 
>>> doesn't
>>> splay during the cut. The thin large diameter dremel fabric imbedded 
>>> disc is
>>> the best.
>>>
>>> Best of luck
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:47 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Cut the stay at the tape with a
>>>> hacksaw"
>>>>
>>>> The absolute best tool for cutting SS wire is the dremel tool with the
>>>> proper disc.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>>>> -----Original Message----- From: Gordon Laco
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:33 PM
>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Back stay
>>>>
>>>> What I've had clients do in the past is measure as described.... Then 
>>>> have
>>>> the new stay made a foot or so longer than you expect to need it to be.
>>>> Have the rigging supplier swage on the top end (make very sure you know 
>>>> the
>>>> type of end you need - fork or eye - and the pin diameter)
>>>>
>>>> To install the stay, run a couple of halyards back to solid points on 
>>>> the
>>>> deck, then go up the mast and remove the backstay.  After lowering it 
>>>> to the
>>>> deck, install the new one, and come down.  Once on deck again, hold the 
>>>> new
>>>> backstay to the extended old backstay turnbuckle and mark where the end 
>>>> of
>>>> it needs to be with tape.  visualize  Cut the stay at the tape with a
>>>> hacksaw and install a stalok or similar swageless terminal.
>>>>
>>>> Tension up the new backstay - put the halyards away and the job's done.
>>>>
>>>> The only dodgy part of this operation is going up the mast while 
>>>> jury-rigged
>>>> halyards are staying it from aft.  This isn't dangerous in itself, but 
>>>> the
>>>> consequences of somebody releasing the wrong line etc are not good. 
>>>> If you
>>>> have a mast crane at your club/marina, use that as a back up for 
>>>> safety.
>>>>
>>>> Gord #426 Surprise
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 30/01/13 2:26 PM, "Jonathan Whittingham" <whittle at shaw.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If you can't wait, go up mast with a piece of non stretch string, 
>>>>> attach to
>>>>> top end, descend with other end in a loop, measure what you need , 
>>>>> mark it
>>>>> and pull the loop back from the deck. Measure the mark.Jonathan. (Or 
>>>>> send a
>>>>> small child up instead!)
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Bill Ydel
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 10:25 AM
>>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> Subject: [Public-List] Back stay
>>>>>
>>>>> Since I am taking the Mast down to replace the sheave I will also 
>>>>> replace
>>>>> the back stay. Does anyone have the specifications for that stay so I 
>>>>> can
>>>>> order it before I take the boat to the yard.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>> SallyB #441
>>>>>
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>>>>>
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>>>>
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>
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