[Public-List] restoration items

[Mike Lehman]

I have a whole tree of red oak and various thickness all rough cut, just needs to be planed and cut. If anyone needs some, let me know.

--- Original Message ---

From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
Sent: October 5, 2013 5:03 PM
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-List] restoration items

I had to replace one of mine when in Texas; white oak was not available, so
I have one of white oak, one of red. That was over 30 years ago, both are
doing well. I fabricated it with a portable jig saw and a hand plane, using
the old one as a template. It's not rocket science.
MichaelGrosh
#220
On Oct 5, 2013 2:53 PM, "Bill Woodford" <williamwoodford at charleswoodford.com>
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> I replaced my wooden spreaders this year on US 11.  One of my crew members
> has a custom woodworking business and he made mine.   I had trouble finding
> white oak for the project and he was able to locate it for me.  Several
> association members strongly advised using white oak.
>
> http://www.hoffmans-furniture.com
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Woody
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 5, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Robert Alley <1ralley at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > With regard to spreaders, the most important issue is to determine the
> > condition of the hardware and the wood.  If solid, there is no reason not
> > to reuse them.  If any parts are unsound, then you must replace.  If you
> > replace the wood, think about using white oak, which is a bit more rot
> > resistant than other things that could be used.  I painted the tops,
> > leading and trailing edges, and end grains white (3 or more coats) and
> the
> > bottoms with a marine clear finish (5 coats) years ago.  It was a good
> > quality, relatively expensive marine exterior paint; it lasted about 8
> > years. You may find shims on the inboard ends, and perhaps that the
> > attachment bolts are fully theaded. I chose to make my shims aluminum
> only,
> > (the bracket on the mast is aluminum) and the fully threaded bolts should
> > be replaced with bolts that are not threaded where they pass through the
> > wood. It is important to check your wooden spreaders about once a year.
> >  They work hard in all weather, and any breaks in the applied finish
> should
> > be immediately attended to so as to avoid rot.
> >
> > Rob Alley
> > A30219
> >
> >
> > On 10/4/2013 3:20 PM, matt strickland wrote:
> >
> >> Well, I've started in on my project to get #416 back in the water and
> >> have a couple jobs on which I was hoping to get some advice.
> >>
> >> Number one is the bilge.  I'm sure that everyone has had experiences
> >> pulling all kinds of stuff out of their bilges, but as I look down into
> the
> >> water/oil/god-only-knows-what stew down there, I find myself asking
> "wait,
> >> she's up on the hard, why can't I drain this out?" so I'm wondering if
> >> anyone has had experience installing a garboard drain?  Is there an
> ideal
> >> spot to locate it?  What landmarks on the boat are reliable from which
> to
> >> measure where it should go?
> >>
> >> Number two is the spreaders.  They are wood and look to be in need of
> >> replacement.  I'm going to take the mast down so that I can inspect
> >> everything from top to bottom, and also redrill the chainplates while
> I'm
> >> at it.  But does anyone have a good line on a place to get replacements
> in
> >> the Annapolis area?  I'm not adverse to going to with aluminum as a
> >> replacement, but also have no problem staying with wood.  Right now my
> >> restoration budget is really tight so whatever is going to be simplest
> and
> >> most cost-effective is probably the way I'll go on this item.
> >>
> >> I've got plenty more things to ask about, but I figure I'll start with
> >> these two and move to the rest as I get to them.  I've been looking
> through
> >> the archives of the mailing list and gotten a lot of great information
> >> already, so I can tell that this community is going to be great to be a
> >> part of.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Matt
> >> #416 - TBD (still)
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