[Public-List] rudder shoe bolts

[Randy Katz via Public-List]

Greetings,

A note about the rudder shoe bolt(s).  I remember replacing mine about 11
years ago with SS bolts, which I thought was correct at the time. About 4
yrs. later, I had learned about silicone (silica?) bronze being preferred
what with crevice corrosion possibilities with SS.

Upon pulling the SS bolt I found it to be in perfect condition (after only
a few years), but replaced it anyway with silicone bronze. One assumes the
bolt today to be whole and uncorroded. Haven't checked yet.

Randy Katz
#249
Bellingham/Seattle


------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 10:58:33 -0700
> From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: James Allocco <jamesallocco at gmail.com>,     Alberg 30 Public List --
>         open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Rudder Shoe Replacement
> Message-ID: <AF15353C-8B2E-4063-9CE0-F1C421D0593E at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
>
> Jim,  easy enough to check your rudder shoe.  Pull the shoe off and look
> for elongation
> In the hole where the rudder pin sits.  Also look at the rudder pin and
> determine if it has been worn down or elongated.  If so, time for a new pin
> in the rudder stock.  Probably requires pulling the rudder, which one
> person can do with some muscle and some serious wiggling of rudder back and
> forth.  Then drill out the old pin, or if integral to the stock, cut off
> and blind drill and tap a 1/2 or 5/8" hole down into the rudder stock 2 to
> 3" and thread in a new silica bronze bolt (NOT STAINLESS ), cut off the
> head and wall-la reassemble.  Sounds horrible- it isn't.
>
> Note:  you may need to reem out or drill the hole in the rudder shoe to
> accommodate a new size pin.
>
> I did this a few years ago and used 5/8" pin, as there is plenty O
> material in the rudder shoe to drill oversize, and I love the extra bearing
> surface at the bottom of the rudder.  Actually I rebuilt the rudder with
> new 1" bronze shafting and had a machine shop turn the bottom of the shaft
> down into the pin, but plenty of albergers have drilled existing and
> replaced with bronze bolt.
>
> Glenn B
> Dolce 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jul 8, 2014, at 8:34 AM, James Allocco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Fellow Albergers'
> >
> > Thanks for the feedback concerning my stiff tiller movement.
> > I dove down to have a look but couldn't see a thing in the murky water. I
> > did notice play in both the prop shaft and rudder so I decided to have
> the
> > boat pulled.
> >
> > As it had been awhile since I replaced the bearing I checked the archives
> > for info on replacing the cutlass bearing and rudder shoe.
> >
> > To sum up the bearing replacement:
> >
> > 1. The Stern Post (bearing housing) is held on with 2 bolts and treaded
> > onto the Stern Tube.
> >
> > 2. After removing the upper and lower bolts it is best to have a helper
> > using a pipe wrench hold the Stern Tube from turning so as not to weaken
> > its connection to the caulk while unscrewing the Stern Post. It may be
> > necessary to apply heat to the Stern Post.
> >
> > 3. It may be necessary to drill out and retap the setscrew holes.
> >
> > 4. It may be necessary to use a hacksaw blade to cut the bearing for
> > removal. The bearing is a Morse Barracuda .875 x 1.375 x 3 1/2 that needs
> > to be cut to length.
> >
> > 5. Using the Stern Post a guide drill water vent holes is the bearing.
> >
> > Questions: Is it advisable to caulk the Stern Tube treads prior to
> screwing
> > on the Stern Post?  Did I omit anything?
> >
> > Rudder Shoe Replacement:
> >
> > I couldn't find much info on the rudder shoe replacement and would
> > appreciate any advice someone has to offer.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jim Allocco
> > Barchetta Mia 565
> > _________________________
>


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