[Public-List] Topsides paint consistency & application details

[Randy Katz via Public-List]

Greetings,

Yes, the paint consistency was about like milk-- runny. (This was ONE-part,
polyurethane paint, Brightsides by Interlux.) That thinness fits with the
recommended idea of applying multiple thin coats instead of one heavy coat.
It's more work, but yields finer results.

This is also why I found the slightly thicker nap on the foam roller made
it easier to control the paint. (Be sure the foam roller says that it's for
polyurethane.) A very thin roller cover tended to let the paint run off and
dribble all over the place, whereas the slightly thicker cover held it
somewhat longer/better, allowing for more control.  Some amount of
experimentation is required here to get the hang of it. Not being a
perfectionist, I suggest trying it out directly on the boat-- When you do
the next round of sanding you can remove goof-ups. (Perfectionists may want
to experiment on a primed board or something. That would be a different
surface type from fiberglass, but you'd get the hang of it quickly.)

Interlux recommends thinning with Interlux 333 when needed, as on hot or
windy days (when the paint in the tray may dry out noticeably over the
20-30 min. needed for painting a side) in order to keep the flow going.
Again, experimenting a bit will show the way.

And yes, that point about not stopping once you've begun painting is VERY
important. Keeping a wet leading edge helps to make a merge with the next
section you paint. (Best to start off rolling and tipping small sections at
a time, say 2 x 2 feet, till you get the hang of it.) If the paint dries
out too much there at the leading edge, a ridge of paint may be detected
once everything has dried. So-- start and go, go, go! Keep in mind that
errors will have to be dealt with after everything's dried.

Use of quality supplies is recommended and no doubt pay off in better
results. Example: Badger hair paintbrushes for tipping are said to be best.
I used a good bristle brush which worked to my own satisfaction. (Did have
a couple of bristles to pluck out, though.)

All for the cause,

Best Regards,

Randy Katz
#249 Simple Gifts
Bellingham/Seattle


> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 10:45:43 -0400
> From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>,  Alberg 30 Public List -- open
>         to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Topsides painting experience to share
> Message-ID:
>         <CAFWpyHyUqRyXxnmR6Nu_sUXdFnSVKh4orBdqoG1=
> 4df1zgTpVA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> This was thirty years ago, we were old school, used enamel and thinned the
> flang out of it with both thinner and easy brush, most of the boats we
> painted were white and the paint looked about like milk, quite thin...you
> DO have to move along, no stopping, used the best brush money could buy,
> took really good care of them
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 9:44 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > We don't recommend thinning two part polyurethane when painting fibre
> glass
> > unless particular brushing conditions exist (such as high temperature...)
> >
> > Maybe I should be responding professionally off list?
> >
> > Gord
> > #426 Surprise
> > AKA Epifanes Canada
> >
> >
> > On 15/07/14 9:35 AM, "Wehicks" <wehicks at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Do you thin paint til it's like water or can you give me an idea how
> > thin with
> > > examples?  Ketchup , honey , stp, motor oil, etc.
> > > thanks
> > > Walter
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >