[Public-List] Fasteners, removing varnished in plugs

[Michael Connolly via Public-List]

Brent, 

I have a suggestion/trick for removing the plugs without damaging the adjacent wood surface. This also applies to oval or flat head fasteners holding any brightwork in place.  There is a set of tools made to bore holes thru cork stoppers and gasket material. Each individual tool is a thin walled tube with a beveled edge ground around the outside circumference of one end of the tube. These are managed by tapping them or twisting the tool thru the material you wish to have the hole. 

I have found these especially helpful by selecting a size which will just match the size of the fastener head, or in your case, the size of the teak plug.  By carefully scoring the varnish around the plug or fastener prior to removal, one can eliminate the inevitable surface splintering of the wood surface adjacent to either the plug or fastener.  

You can also make a tool by selecting a steel thin walled tube to match the outside diameter of what you plan to remove. Then use a file to 'sharpen' the outside circumference of the tube to a knife edge. The time you spend making and using this tool will prevent you from spoiling your brightwork. 

I have had great results using this technique.  Try as you might otherwise and you will learn personally the heartbreak of ruining your brightwork's surface. 

Take your time and good luck. 

Michael #133 

  

----- Original Message -----

From: "Dinwiddie, George" <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org> 
To: "Brent Higgins" <brentongl at yahoo.com>, "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 10:01:18 PM 
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Fasteners 

Brent, 

I would knock the plugs out rather than drilling them. If you drill the 
same size, and you're the slightest bit off, you'll have to redrill to a 
larger size to get the new plugs to fit. 

 From memory, I think the coamings are held with 1/4-20 round-head 
machine screws. The cleats you should be able to tell by what fits the 
holes. 

Brightwork around the companionway is probably #10 flathead wood screws, 
covered by bungs. 

The hatch hinges are, I think, 1/4-20 flathead machine screws. 

  - George 

On 6/30/14, 4:24 PM, Brent Higgins wrote: 
> Hi, 
> 
> 
> My name is Brent and I'm the new owner of hull #317. I emailed last week about how to get wood plugs out after they've been varnished on. I think I'm just going to use a forstener bit, but I'm really anxious. The previous owner refinished all the brightwork really nicely but left the plugs in, so I can't reattach anything to the boat without removing them first. Can I order some new plugs and pre-finish them before putting them on, once I've reinstalled the brightwork? 
> 
> 
> I have another question. He left all the fasteners off and didn't really label anything. I'm thinking of replacing them all, anyway. Is there a comprehensive list of the types of fasteners I should use on different parts of the boat & for different pieces of hardware? 
> 
> 
> I need to reinstall the following: 
>         * Coamings (along with the cleats that are on the outboard side of them and the winch bases) 
> 
>         * Brightwork around the companionway 
>         * Lazarette hatch 
>         * Forward hatch 
>         * The little hatch that covers the engine meters in the cockpit near the companionway 
> 
> I'd appreciate any advise you have. 
> 
> 
> Best, 
> 
> Brenton 
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-- 
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   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org 
   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org 
   So many I love were not yet born.                          also see: 
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