[Public-List] Fasteners, removing varnished in plugs

Wed Jul 2 03:26:47 PDT 2014

John, you live a blessed life

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Smartphone

------ Original message------
From: John Birch via Public-List
Date: Wed, Jul 2, 2014 4:46 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all;
Subject:Re: [Public-List] Fasteners, removing varnished in plugs
I've always used a Forstner bit to remove old plugs as well as to drill for
new ones - gives the cleanest hole.

One has to be careful to hit the plug in the centre and to entre lightly so
as to not damage either the screw or bolt head and also the bit. Have never
damaged either.

Hope this is a help.

John

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Connolly via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Fasteners, removing varnished in plugs

>
>
> Brent,
>
> I have a suggestion/trick for removing the plugs without damaging the
> adjacent wood surface. This also applies to oval or flat head fasteners
> holding any brightwork in place. There is a set of tools made to bore
> holes thru cork stoppers and gasket material. Each individual tool is a
> thin walled tube with a beveled edge ground around the outside
> circumference of one end of the tube. These are managed by tapping them or
> twisting the tool thru the material you wish to have the hole.
>
> I have found these especially helpful by selecting a size which will just
> match the size of the fastener head, or in your case, the size of the teak
> plug. By carefully scoring the varnish around the plug or fastener prior
> to removal, one can eliminate the inevitable surface splintering of the
> wood surface adjacent to either the plug or fastener.
>
> You can also make a tool by selecting a steel thin walled tube to match
> the outside diameter of what you plan to remove. Then use a file to
> 'sharpen' the outside circumference of the tube to a knife edge. The time
> you spend making and using this tool will prevent you from spoiling your
> brightwork.
>
> I have had great results using this technique. Try as you might otherwise
> and you will learn personally the heartbreak of ruining your brightwork's
> surface.
>
> Take your time and good luck.
>
> Michael #133
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Dinwiddie, George" <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> To: "Brent Higgins" <brentongl at yahoo.com>, "Alberg 30 Public List -- open
> to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 10:01:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Fasteners
>
> Brent,
>
> I would knock the plugs out rather than drilling them. If you drill the
> same size, and you're the slightest bit off, you'll have to redrill to a
> larger size to get the new plugs to fit.
>
> From memory, I think the coamings are held with 1/4-20 round-head
> machine screws. The cleats you should be able to tell by what fits the
> holes.
>
> Brightwork around the companionway is probably #10 flathead wood screws,
> covered by bungs.
>
> The hatch hinges are, I think, 1/4-20 flathead machine screws.
>
> - George
>
> On 6/30/14, 4:24 PM, Brent Higgins wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>> My name is Brent and I'm the new owner of hull #317. I emailed last week
>> about how to get wood plugs out after they've been varnished on. I think
>> I'm just going to use a forstener bit, but I'm really anxious. The
>> previous owner refinished all the brightwork really nicely but left the
>> plugs in, so I can't reattach anything to the boat without removing them
>> first. Can I order some new plugs and pre-finish them before putting them
>> on, once I've reinstalled the brightwork?
>>
>>
>> I have another question. He left all the fasteners off and didn't really
>> label anything. I'm thinking of replacing them all, anyway. Is there a
>> comprehensive list of the types of fasteners I should use on different
>> parts of the boat & for different pieces of hardware?
>>
>>
>> I need to reinstall the following:
>> * Coamings (along with the cleats that are on the outboard side of them
>> and the winch bases)
>>
>> * Brightwork around the companionway
>> * Lazarette hatch
>> * Forward hatch
>> * The little hatch that covers the engine meters in the cockpit near the
>> companionway
>>
>> I'd appreciate any advise you have.
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Brenton
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>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
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