[Public-List] Rudder Shoe Replacement

[Mike Lehman via Public-List]

Also, if the hole in the shoe is elongated, you can put a bushing in it. 
Also, the pin is actually a 3/8" bronze bolt that is screwed into the rudder 
stock...with a little luck you can unscrew the pin and replace it with 
another bronze bolt. Use a bolt with a shank (not threaded all the way to 
the head).




~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~


-----Original Message----- 
From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:58 PM
To: James Allocco ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Rudder Shoe Replacement

Jim,  easy enough to check your rudder shoe.  Pull the shoe off and look for 
elongation
In the hole where the rudder pin sits.  Also look at the rudder pin and 
determine if it has been worn down or elongated.  If so, time for a new pin 
in the rudder stock.  Probably requires pulling the rudder, which one person 
can do with some muscle and some serious wiggling of rudder back and forth. 
Then drill out the old pin, or if integral to the stock, cut off and blind 
drill and tap a 1/2 or 5/8" hole down into the rudder stock 2 to 3" and 
thread in a new silica bronze bolt (NOT STAINLESS ), cut off the head and 
wall-la reassemble.  Sounds horrible- it isn't.

Note:  you may need to reem out or drill the hole in the rudder shoe to 
accommodate a new size pin.

I did this a few years ago and used 5/8" pin, as there is plenty O material 
in the rudder shoe to drill oversize, and I love the extra bearing surface 
at the bottom of the rudder.  Actually I rebuilt the rudder with new 1" 
bronze shafting and had a machine shop turn the bottom of the shaft down 
into the pin, but plenty of albergers have drilled existing and replaced 
with bronze bolt.

Glenn B
Dolce 318

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 8:34 AM, James Allocco via Public-List 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> Fellow Albergers'
>
> Thanks for the feedback concerning my stiff tiller movement.
> I dove down to have a look but couldn't see a thing in the murky water. I
> did notice play in both the prop shaft and rudder so I decided to have the
> boat pulled.
>
> As it had been awhile since I replaced the bearing I checked the archives
> for info on replacing the cutlass bearing and rudder shoe.
>
> To sum up the bearing replacement:
>
> 1. The Stern Post (bearing housing) is held on with 2 bolts and treaded
> onto the Stern Tube.
>
> 2. After removing the upper and lower bolts it is best to have a helper
> using a pipe wrench hold the Stern Tube from turning so as not to weaken
> its connection to the caulk while unscrewing the Stern Post. It may be
> necessary to apply heat to the Stern Post.
>
> 3. It may be necessary to drill out and retap the setscrew holes.
>
> 4. It may be necessary to use a hacksaw blade to cut the bearing for
> removal. The bearing is a Morse Barracuda .875 x 1.375 x 3 1/2 that needs
> to be cut to length.
>
> 5. Using the Stern Post a guide drill water vent holes is the bearing.
>
> Questions: Is it advisable to caulk the Stern Tube treads prior to 
> screwing
> on the Stern Post?  Did I omit anything?
>
> Rudder Shoe Replacement:
>
> I couldn't find much info on the rudder shoe replacement and would
> appreciate any advice someone has to offer.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Allocco
> Barchetta Mia 565
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