[Public-List] Rudder needs some love...

[Gordon Laco]

Hi Greg - 

A rudder really isn't all that difficult to build, provided you've got hand
tools and a place to work.  I'll put my suggestions after your comments
below.


On 28/03/14 12:24 PM, "gregr at nethere.com" <gregr at nethere.com> wrote:

> Good Morning Folks,
> 
> I hauled out yesterday for bottom paint and through hull replacements.
> My rudder is in rough shape. It's wood (Hull 43) and the cross supports are
> pretty much gone. The whole thing has a dull sound when I rap on it with
> the butt of my pocket knife. The shaft is one of the short ones that ends
> at the bottom of the prop cutout.
> 
> I may make repairs to get me by for a couple of months while I pursue the
> final fix. (I know absolutely nothing about using wood below the water
> line.)
There's no great mystery about wood beneath the water line...
> 
> 1. What glue should I use? The original cross supports look to be about 1
> 1/4" thick so I'll likely need to laminate some stock to make new ones.
> I have epoxy from AeroMarine and TiteBond III in my kit but will buy
> whatever. What glue should I use between the new supports and the rudder?
Epoxy glue is a good choice.  There's much discussion about the acids in
white oak not getting on with any glue, but you don't have to use oak.  I've
seen very good work done using mahogany or even fir.  In the later case, the
fir was sheathed in light cloth set in epoxy.  Fir is less expensive,
lighter, a joy to work and available in thick wide pieces if you need them.
It holds fastenings well and glues very well.
> 
> 2. What is recommended for fairing the rudder before bottom paint?
I'd suggest epoxy thickened with 'wood flour'  aka fine sawdust.  You can
buy it or collect it.  I once used real flour in desperation (forgot to
bring the right stuff) and it stayed in place in Touch Wood's rudder for
decades.
> 
> 3. Is there a sealing product or primer that I should use before the bottom
> paint? I have a penetrating epoxy. Any value to use it?
Epoxy is good because it'll inhibit the ingress of borers (I assume you're
in salt water?)
> 
> 4. I'll be using silicon bronze bolts and washers. Are split lock washers a
> good choice here? Some kind of thread locker?
I've never used a thread locker so am no authority there, but the bronze
bolts and washers are a very good choice.
> 
> The wood guys in the yard have quoted $3K for a new wood rudder. I'm
> figuring it would end up being $4k-$5k soup to nuts. I need to check but I
> think they expect to reuse the main shaft.
Can't comment on going rates where you live....but bear in mind when
considering the price that this is a flat piece, and you'll have the old one
to use as a pattern.  No high skilled shipwright's work is required....
> 
> The metal guy is going to quote a metal rudder today. I'm not sure how that
> would work. He wasn't at the yard yesterday so this is hearsay but the guys
> described a flat plate with stiffeners. I can't think of good metal to use.
> The flat plate is going to result in drag. How significant I don't know.
I wouldn't recommend this.  Your boat will be a bit of an oddity with a
plate rudder.  Not really an A30 any more.
> 
> I'm currently leaning towards making a fiberglass one with a shaft that runs
> from the tiller head to the shoe.
If you're good with glass/epoxy laminating, this is a good option.  You can
cut yourself a foam core using the old rudder as a pattern, fit the metal
work to it then lay up a lamination on it using epoxy and cloth.  Or, you
could use fir for the core and use less epoxy.....

Not a small job, but not at all complex....

Hope this helps.

Gord #426 Surprise
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Greg
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