[Public-List] Bulkhead replacement question

[Jeffrey via Public-List]

I second the oscillating tool.  Can't imagine anything better for cutting
fiberglass tabbing if precision and neatness is a concern. I bought a
Rockwell at Lowes and it works great.  Now that I own one I use if for all
kinds of projects.

If I were going to do this, I'd use Sapele marine grade plywood if I were
going to finish bright, or Hydrotek marine grade plywood if painted.
Douglass Fir marine plywood checks, and Okoume in supposedly not very rot
resistant. I'm using Sapele plywood for a small boat project and it is
hard, tough stuff.

I think synthetic plywood is overkill, and I', not sure they can be used in
compression.  Good marine ply and keep it dry.

-jeff



Seagrass. #116
Boothbay Harbor, Maine
http://sailboatseagrass.com/

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>

On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 12:09 PM, Glenn Brooks via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hands down the best tool would be a Fein Oscillating multi purpose tool.
> They make a bunch of different shape blades to cut almost any shaped
> surface.  Home Depot sells a very poor substitute - I bought one and it was
> a waste of money and time.  Threw it away after a while.
> Right angle 4" grinders with cutting wheels work OK also, but throw a lot
> of fiberglass dust into the air (and your face).  I think a couple of tool
> companies also make small battery powered circular saws - Bosch and Makita
> maybe- that might work well for cutting out your bulkhead and tabing close
> to the hull.  I also use a belt sander to grind down and smooth out
> fiberglass tabing and any rough imperfections that show up after demolition
> or layup.  A belt sander somehow clumps the fiberglass dust together in
> handfuls of heavy residue and doesn't throw it all around the boat like a
> palm sander or grinder does. Great tool to use in FG work.
>
> Don't know what to recommend about replacing the wood bullhead.  I
> recently had a bad experience with teak plywood - the glue separated in one
> year old ply and the whole structure delaminated when normal marine
> humidity got into it.  mahogany ply gives you a nice varnished surface,
> Coosa gets great reviews for decks and transoms.  I haven't researched it
> enough to know if it works for structural bullheads. Either would work
> Probably, but Coosa is something worth extra investigation for your purpose
> just to be certain...
>
> Regards
> Glenn Brooks
> Ex-dolce 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 18, 2015, at 7:39 AM, Matthew Hay via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry, lol, not perpendicular, that would be tragic.  I meant parallel
> > slowly down the wood, under the tabbing, with a drill bit.
> >
> >> On Saturday, 18 April 2015, Matthew Hay <mattrhay at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi everyone,
> >>
> >> I am starting work on a newly purchased 1962 Alberg 35.  I missed my A30
> >> so much after sailing a Sabre for a few years, but now my kids are up
> to my
> >> chin in height, so I went for the big brother this time.  I have been
> >> sending e-mails to join the A35 list but have not heard back from them
> and
> >> I can't stop my progress.  Has anyone replaced there bulkhead?  If so,
> what
> >> did they use?  I have been looking at g10 (possible over kill, pretty
> >> pricy, hard to work), Coosa board (promising, but is it structurally
> strong
> >> enough?, twice the cost of ply), or bs1108? Marine ply, I like the
> >> Merrineti sp mohogany for $120 a board.   So, Coosa for longevity or
> >> replace with that special Loyds rated ply?  Or any other suggestion.
> Also,
> >> what methods did you use to remove?  Can I use a cordless drill with a
> >> sheet rock bit down perpendicular to hull under tabbing.   No liner,
> just a
> >> big Alberg.
> >>
> >> Happy spring!
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Matthew Hay
> >> 1962 Alberg 35 hull 62
> >> Former owner hull 314 A30
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-- 
______________

Jeffrey Fongemie

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>