[Public-List] Interior Paint

[Jim Davis via Public-List]

   Just a thought  Satin finish works well for interior.  It softens the
   harshness of high gloss and hides much of the imperfections of the
   surface.  It cleans as easily as gloss.  It is also more traditional
   than gloss.  As to the paint itself, I have used Briteside and
   Rustoleum (the old fashioned stuff- not their marine) with good
   results.  I have also had good results with Painters Choice which is
   actually a water base.  For the teak I personally like Minwax poly spar
   in a satin.
Jim Davis
Privateer Isa Lei

If man does find the solution for world peace it will be the most revolutionary
reversal of his record we have ever known.

George C. Marshall

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2015 08:47:00 -0700
From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: James Allocco <jamesallocco at gmail.com>,     Alberg 30 Public List --
        open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Interior Paint
Message-ID: <660F909C-74CD-49C8-ABF1-A4CCA0E9DEB4 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
Jim,
I've found the best thing to prevent mold here in the Pacific Northwest is a lit
tle airflow and some heat in the boat when laid up.  When I owned Dolce, I  used
 a small 110 v marine Heater from West Marine- running on low, with an adjustabl
e thermostat to put a bit of warm air circulation into the boat.  That keeps the
 interior dry and prevents mold from forming.
Regarding teak finishes, I also like oiled surfaces, and use teak oil as needed
with no problems. However have had great, long lasting success with tung oil.  W
hen refinishing teak, I always put one or two coats of teak oil as a base layer,
 but like tung oil as a finish  as it drys hard and seals the surface well.  I b
uilt up 6 or 7 coats of tung oil on all my bulkheads and teak joinery work, whic
h lasted for some years, then after a few years started wiping down with an addi
tional coat every spring.  Formby sells a brand tung oil I've been very happy wi
th.
Glenn B.
Ex-Dolce
318
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 8:12 AM, James Allocco via Public-List <public-list at lists.
alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> I have an Alberg, #565 with a liner.  There are a few areas I would like to
> repaint, primarily in the storage lockers in the main cabin, so I
> appreciate the information.  Living in NC the boat is in the water year
> round. Its is not used and is closed tight December through February as we
> are away for 6 weeks during the winter.  I use the MDS mold preventive
> products and the water absorbing salt products,  and have learned to keep
> the curtains drawn back to allow sun light in but I still get some mold on
> the liner and teak.  The mold on the liner is no problem; I wipe  it down
> with a Clorox spray. However in the past I had heavy mold on the teak and
> bleached out the finish removing it.  I used to use teak oil to bring out
> the luster but I suspect the oil might encourage mold growth. I prefer the
> softer finish of the oil vs. varnish so I have done nothing for the past 4
> years. Does anyone have a suggestion for finishing the teak. Would varnish
> or Sikens be a better choice to mitigate the mold.  Of course mold was not
> a problem when the boat was stored in upstate NY.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Allocco
>
> On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 10:33 AM, Bill Woodford via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>> John,
>>
>> Two seasons ago, I tackled this job in the V-berth.  US 11 is also a
>> pre-liner boat and I had a serious mold issue in the V. After much
>> scrubbing and cleaning, I used Benjamin Moore- Aura Bath & Spa paint. We
>> matched the color with the existing color and it has held up very well.
>>
>> The paint still looks terrific and I have had no issues.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Woody
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 10:18 AM, via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I purchased #322 also 1968 in the fall and just finished painting the
>>> interior.  I used white gloss Tremclad which is the Canadian equivalent
>> of
>>> rustoleum.  Did not do lockers at waterline and below as I wanted to see
>>> any potential trouble with the fiberglass floor over the ballast and
>> keel.
>>> Otherwise, it is excellent for adhesion over well prepped previous paint
>>> job.  Expect about 3 gallons for 3 coats front to back!  I have
>> refinished
>>> the woodwork with Minwax stain (red mahogany) and sealed with Lemon oil.
>>> Looks nice, smells nice!
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Maurice
>>>
>>>
>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>> From: John Brugeman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> To: public-list <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> Sent: Mon, Apr 27, 2015 8:15 am
>>> Subject: [Public-List] Interior Paint
>>>
>>>
>>> Need some interior paint help.  I have a 1968 Alberg #306 (no liner) that
>>> has
>>> been previously painted with I don't know what. We have started in the
>>> forward
>>> section of the boat and prepped all areas by removing all peeling paint
>>> and then
>>> wire brushed all surfaces. The boat is dry with no mold and some areas
>> are
>>> raw
>>> fiberglass.  I am looking at Interlux and Pettit products and I am at a
>>> loss as
>>> to what specific product to use.  I am sure there are some of you that
>>> have gone
>>> thru this process before and I would entertain any advice you could
>>> offer.  I am
>>> only the second owner of this great boat and it has been well maintained
>>> over
>>> the years and I would like to do it right.  Thank you in
>>> advance.