[Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine

Mon Aug 3 15:55:47 PDT 2015

Thanks all for the responses...I think the best course of action is to get the motor out, have a good look/autopsy and then see what the options are since the thing will need to come out anyway (most likely)...I like the electric option, dunno the costs???

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 3, 2015, at 5:34 PM, Richard Mair <ramair49 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I vote for the electric option. Into The Blue has an electric yacht motor. As a day sailor weekender we find it great.
> Those times when you have to motor sail make life a lot quieter. You will need to change the prop. We turn a 13×12 three blade. 
> On Aug 3, 2015 2:35 PM, "Wes Gardner via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Or should I consider the electric option....I will only be daysailing and weekending so staying hooked up to shore power is not a big deal.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > > On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > Or ...
> > >
> > > You could drop in a rebuilt Atomic IV from Moyer...
> > >
> > > Gord Surprise 426
> > > (I reckon what I've just written could be called 'throwing gasoline on the fire...)
> > >
> > > :•)
> > >
> > >> On 2015-08-03, at 9:14 AM, Don Campbell via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Wes:
> > >>  Now that the motor has cooled to air temperature, try to turn it over by hand by using a crank  or wrench on the crankshaft,  if the configuration allows you to get on a nut or fitting of any kind. You may have to remove the injectors to get rid of the compression but make sure you keep things clean on their tips and both ends of the fuel line at the top of the injector that you have opened.  If it turns over, (and there should be some resistance because of compression if you try without removing the injectors), then check the oil drain plug for metal fragments. Most plugs are magnetized and will attract filings or pieces if there are any. You may have to irrigate the system with a bit of oil so that the pieces will flow to the plug if they are in the bottom of the pan.  If there are pieces, then you may want to break down the engine further before going on. Otherwise, refill with oil, plug the hole for the oil pressure sender with a new pressure gauge, have your injectors back in and try turning it over with the battery.  If it starts, then carefully monitor both  the oil pressure gauge to make sure the pump is working,  and the temperature gauge to make sure there is cooling. If you can,  use a wooden stick to go from your ear to each of the three cylinders to try to hear if things are clanking or the rings not working well with the oil pressure. The wood magnifies the sound and all 3 should sound the same.
> > >>
> > >> Try to get a measure of the pressure in each cylinder with a compression test on each. I gather the pressure should be about 350 psi in each cylinder for this motor. If pressures are down, it may be due to a broken ring or head gasket leak and you need to then consider how much of a rebuild you are going to undertake.  Otherwise, get a manual for the motor and then you may have to remove the head so you can see how blue or discoloured the inside of the motor might be.   If the rings are seized, then I imagine it will be a mechanic's estimate on which to decide to rebuild or replace. Assuming you have some reasonable wrenches and sockets, and you are careful removing things as you go, there is no need to have a mechanic do the tear down, but keeping parts in an order, and clean is imperative. You do not want dust anywhere in the fuel system or chambers of the engine. Plastic bags with ziplocks, plastic with tape on fuel lines and cloth stuffed into injector ports and over cylinders are easy to do as you go. You will need to be able to remove the engine from the boat for the rebuild so the dust covers need to be sufficiently attached to allow you to do that.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>  That said, there must be a reason the oil sending unit separated from the motor. Check the motor mounts to see that they are within tolerance for coping with the vibration damping necessary for a diesel.   If it broke away, then sort out the problem of a solid transmission line to the gauge with a more flexible material so that the vibration from the diesel does not end up doing the same thing a second time.  This may have been  better than if the shaft to the prop had let go and flooded the boat, but that alignment is also subject to the vibration if the mounts are not good.
> > >> Don
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message----- From: Wes Gardner via Public-List
> > >> Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 8:11 AM
> > >> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > >> Subject: [Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine
> > >>
> > >> Last night, although a beautiful night for sailing on the Bay, was not a good night for me when motoring home. Apparently, the oil pressure sender came adrift from the side of the motor and pumped all the oil into the bilge. The motor seized up while running, ouch. The motor is a Mitsubishi/Vetus M3.10
> > >>
> > >> So now the question - rebuild the existing motor, replace with new ???, convert to electric.  Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPad
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