[Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine

[Don Campbell via Public-List]

Wes:
    Now that the motor has cooled to air temperature, try to turn it over by 
hand by using a crank  or wrench on the crankshaft,  if the configuration 
allows you to get on a nut or fitting of any kind. You may have to remove 
the injectors to get rid of the compression but make sure you keep things 
clean on their tips and both ends of the fuel line at the top of the 
injector that you have opened.  If it turns over, (and there should be some 
resistance because of compression if you try without removing the 
injectors), then check the oil drain plug for metal fragments. Most plugs 
are magnetized and will attract filings or pieces if there are any. You may 
have to irrigate the system with a bit of oil so that the pieces will flow 
to the plug if they are in the bottom of the pan.  If there are pieces, then 
you may want to break down the engine further before going on. Otherwise, 
refill with oil, plug the hole for the oil pressure sender with a new 
pressure gauge, have your injectors back in and try turning it over with the 
battery.  If it starts, then carefully monitor both  the oil pressure gauge 
to make sure the pump is working,  and the temperature gauge to make sure 
there is cooling. If you can,  use a wooden stick to go from your ear to 
each of the three cylinders to try to hear if things are clanking or the 
rings not working well with the oil pressure. The wood magnifies the sound 
and all 3 should sound the same.

Try to get a measure of the pressure in each cylinder with a compression 
test on each. I gather the pressure should be about 350 psi in each cylinder 
for this motor. If pressures are down, it may be due to a broken ring or 
head gasket leak and you need to then consider how much of a rebuild you are 
going to undertake.  Otherwise, get a manual for the motor and then you may 
have to remove the head so you can see how blue or discoloured the inside of 
the motor might be.   If the rings are seized, then I imagine it will be a 
mechanic's estimate on which to decide to rebuild or replace. Assuming you 
have some reasonable wrenches and sockets, and you are careful removing 
things as you go, there is no need to have a mechanic do the tear down, but 
keeping parts in an order, and clean is imperative. You do not want dust 
anywhere in the fuel system or chambers of the engine. Plastic bags with 
ziplocks, plastic with tape on fuel lines and cloth stuffed into injector 
ports and over cylinders are easy to do as you go. You will need to be able 
to remove the engine from the boat for the rebuild so the dust covers need 
to be sufficiently attached to allow you to do that.


    That said, there must be a reason the oil sending unit separated from 
the motor. Check the motor mounts to see that they are within tolerance for 
coping with the vibration damping necessary for a diesel.   If it broke 
away, then sort out the problem of a solid transmission line to the gauge 
with a more flexible material so that the vibration from the diesel does not 
end up doing the same thing a second time.  This may have been  better than 
if the shaft to the prop had let go and flooded the boat, but that alignment 
is also subject to the vibration if the mounts are not good.
Don

-----Original Message----- 
From: Wes Gardner via Public-List
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 8:11 AM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine

Last night, although a beautiful night for sailing on the Bay, was not a 
good night for me when motoring home. Apparently, the oil pressure sender 
came adrift from the side of the motor and pumped all the oil into the 
bilge. The motor seized up while running, ouch. The motor is a 
Mitsubishi/Vetus M3.10

So now the question - rebuild the existing motor, replace with new ???, 
convert to electric.  Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Sent from my iPad
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