[Public-List] Public-List Digest, Vol 3028, Issue 2

Bill Newman via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Mon May 4 19:22:17 PDT 2015


Re: Coil for early Model Atomic Four with Prestolite distributor.

George the current coil has an external resistor.

Bill Newman
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 8:31 PM
Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 3028, Issue 2


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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Atomic Four Parts (Bill Newman via Public-List)
>   2. Gooping up the stern tube (Kris Coward via Public-List)
>   3. Re: Gooping up the stern tube (Glenn Brooks via Public-List)
>   4. Re: Gooping up the stern tube (Mike Lehman via Public-List)
>   5. Re: Atomic Four Parts (George Dinwiddie via Public-List)
>   6. Re: Gooping up the stern tube (Kris Coward via Public-List)
>   7. Re: Gooping up the stern tube (anthony pensiero via Public-List)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 16:00:54 -0400
> From: Bill Newman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Atomic Four Parts
> Message-ID: <784E5BA68BB94D80B4176D7A919A4C72 at BillPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Attention George Dinwiddie
>
> Geoge, I have been trying to buy some Atomic Four parts and happily found 
> your part's list on the internet.  Thank you very much.  Do you happen to 
> know any part numbers for a coil for the older style Atomic Four with a 
> Prestolite distributor?
>
> Bill Newman
> Toronto, Canada
> Marion RoseIII, #233
> newman423 at rogers.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 16:18:29 -0400
> From: Kris Coward via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
> Message-ID: <20150504201828.GE2322 at melon.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
> So I'm in the midst of changing the cutlass bearing (as well as a bunch
> of other things) while I've been off the boat for the winter (yes, I
> know it's not winter anymore), and have come across a question:
>
> When I was unscrewing the casting that holds the cutlass bearing from
> the stern tube, the stern tube came out of the hull, instead of
> unscrewing from the casting. I've since gotten those 2 pieces apart with
> a vise grip and pipe wrench, but am thinking ahead to when I'll have to
> put it all back together.
>
> In particular, I'm thinking about how to fix the tube back in the hull
> at the right depth, and I'm thinking of smearing it with 5200 before
> jamming it in so that it stays put the next time the bearing needs to be
> changed. Where I'm sensing some difficulty is getting the tube/hull
> interface properly gooped up without having the goop also get into the
> threads joining the casting and tube (as I'll want to gum them up later
> with something a little less permanent).
>
> So of course, I'm looking for suggestions (preferably from people who
> have had to seal their tube back in place and can describe what did(n't)
> work for them). I have a hunch about something that *might* work, but
> I'll trust hard-earned experience over hunches any day..
>
> Thanks,
> Kris
>
> -- 
> Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 14:02:58 -0700
> From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
> Message-ID: <6CD7F46D-A5D7-4E14-937F-B5CD995B74B5 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Kris,  I used 5200 for the same job, 10 years ago.  Still going strong. 
> Probably be a nightmare to take out 20 years from now.... Oh well, that's 
> what youth are for... Also, Dolce had original Whidby grey putty bedding 
> compound around  the stern tube bore.  I cleaned that out extensively, and 
> used solvents to degrease prior to reinstalling with 5200.
>
> Cautionary note, Be very careful to reinstall and align the stern tube and 
> jack shaft as well as you can, so the engine- xmission is able to be 
> aligned properly. Otherwise you risk ruining your transmission from to 
> much side play induced by a misaligned stern tube.
>
> Cheers
> Glenn B
>
> Ex-dolce, 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 4, 2015, at 1:18 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List 
>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> So I'm in the midst of changing the cutlass bearing (as well as a bunch
>> of other things) while I've been off the boat for the winter (yes, I
>> know it's not winter anymore), and have come across a question:
>>
>> When I was unscrewing the casting that holds the cutlass bearing from
>> the stern tube, the stern tube came out of the hull, instead of
>> unscrewing from the casting. I've since gotten those 2 pieces apart with
>> a vise grip and pipe wrench, but am thinking ahead to when I'll have to
>> put it all back together.
>>
>> In particular, I'm thinking about how to fix the tube back in the hull
>> at the right depth, and I'm thinking of smearing it with 5200 before
>> jamming it in so that it stays put the next time the bearing needs to be
>> changed. Where I'm sensing some difficulty is getting the tube/hull
>> interface properly gooped up without having the goop also get into the
>> threads joining the casting and tube (as I'll want to gum them up later
>> with something a little less permanent).
>>
>> So of course, I'm looking for suggestions (preferably from people who
>> have had to seal their tube back in place and can describe what did(n't)
>> work for them). I have a hunch about something that *might* work, but
>> I'll trust hard-earned experience over hunches any day..
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kris
>>
>> -- 
>> Kris Coward                    http://unripe.melon.org/
>> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 18:02:13 -0400
> From: Mike Lehman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: "Glenn Brooks" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>, "Alberg 30 Public List
> -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
> Message-ID: <SNT151-DS26E4223452178945156D33B7D20 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Kris
>
> I have done this jobs several times. After removing the tube (which you've
> already done) as Glenn noted, clean up all of the old Whitby grey putty
> bedding compound. Screw the tube into the cutlass bearing housing  and
> re-install the housing (with new cutlass bearing installed) in the boat. 
> The
> housing will determine the proper alignment. Climb in over the engine and
> fill the void between the tube/hull completely with 5200. You may need to
> create a dam with duct tape to hold the 5200 in place. It's a wonderful 
> way
> to become one with your boat! :)
>
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 5:02 PM
> To: Kris Coward ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
>
> Kris,  I used 5200 for the same job, 10 years ago.  Still going strong.
> Probably be a nightmare to take out 20 years from now.... Oh well, that's
> what youth are for... Also, Dolce had original Whidby grey putty bedding
> compound around  the stern tube bore.  I cleaned that out extensively, and
> used solvents to degrease prior to reinstalling with 5200.
>
> Cautionary note, Be very careful to reinstall and align the stern tube and
> jack shaft as well as you can, so the engine- xmission is able to be 
> aligned
> properly. Otherwise you risk ruining your transmission from to much side
> play induced by a misaligned stern tube.
>
> Cheers
> Glenn B
>
> Ex-dolce, 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 4, 2015, at 1:18 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List
>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> So I'm in the midst of changing the cutlass bearing (as well as a bunch
>> of other things) while I've been off the boat for the winter (yes, I
>> know it's not winter anymore), and have come across a question:
>>
>> When I was unscrewing the casting that holds the cutlass bearing from
>> the stern tube, the stern tube came out of the hull, instead of
>> unscrewing from the casting. I've since gotten those 2 pieces apart with
>> a vise grip and pipe wrench, but am thinking ahead to when I'll have to
>> put it all back together.
>>
>> In particular, I'm thinking about how to fix the tube back in the hull
>> at the right depth, and I'm thinking of smearing it with 5200 before
>> jamming it in so that it stays put the next time the bearing needs to be
>> changed. Where I'm sensing some difficulty is getting the tube/hull
>> interface properly gooped up without having the goop also get into the
>> threads joining the casting and tube (as I'll want to gum them up later
>> with something a little less permanent).
>>
>> So of course, I'm looking for suggestions (preferably from people who
>> have had to seal their tube back in place and can describe what did(n't)
>> work for them). I have a hunch about something that *might* work, but
>> I'll trust hard-earned experience over hunches any day..
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kris
>>
>> -- 
>> Kris Coward                    http://unripe.melon.org/
>> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 04 May 2015 18:44:49 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie via Public-List
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Atomic Four Parts
> Message-ID: <5547F661.8050608 at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Bill
>
> On 5/4/15 4:00 PM, Bill Newman via Public-List wrote:
>> Attention George Dinwiddie
>>
>> Geoge, I have been trying to buy some Atomic Four parts and happily
>> found your part's list on the internet.  Thank you very much.  Do you
>> happen to know any part numbers for a coil for the older style Atomic
>> Four with a Prestolite distributor?
>
> Sorry, but I don't. Do you have an external resistor?
>
> Check over at forum on the moyermarine.com site.
>
> I've found it's become very difficult to buy ignition parts without an
> automotive make and model. The parts places no longer go by part
> numbers. <sigh/>
>
>  - George
>
> -- 
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>   When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>   So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
>                'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 18:56:51 -0400
> From: Kris Coward via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open
> to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
> Message-ID: <20150504225651.GF2322 at melon.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
> For filling the void, I'm thinking instead of a dam to ask my gf to grab
> the housing/bearing/tube assembly, slowly turn it clockwise, and "slide
> it in and out until you see white goo", while I keep applying the 5200
> to the top of the tube from my perch atop the engine (where I'll be
> delicately perched on my belly). Any thoughts on filling the void this
> way?
>
> -Kris
>
> On Mon, May 04, 2015 at 06:02:13PM -0400, Mike Lehman via Public-List 
> wrote:
>> Kris
>>
>> I have done this jobs several times. After removing the tube (which
>> you've already done) as Glenn noted, clean up all of the old Whitby
>> grey putty bedding compound. Screw the tube into the cutlass bearing
>> housing  and re-install the housing (with new cutlass bearing
>> installed) in the boat. The housing will determine the proper
>> alignment. Climb in over the engine and fill the void between the
>> tube/hull completely with 5200. You may need to create a dam with
>> duct tape to hold the 5200 in place. It's a wonderful way to become
>> one with your boat! :)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List
>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 5:02 PM
>> To: Kris Coward ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
>>
>> Kris,  I used 5200 for the same job, 10 years ago.  Still going
>> strong. Probably be a nightmare to take out 20 years from now.... Oh
>> well, that's what youth are for... Also, Dolce had original Whidby
>> grey putty bedding compound around  the stern tube bore.  I cleaned
>> that out extensively, and used solvents to degrease prior to
>> reinstalling with 5200.
>>
>> Cautionary note, Be very careful to reinstall and align the stern
>> tube and jack shaft as well as you can, so the engine- xmission is
>> able to be aligned properly. Otherwise you risk ruining your
>> transmission from to much side play induced by a misaligned stern
>> tube.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Glenn B
>>
>> Ex-dolce, 318
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> >On May 4, 2015, at 1:18 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List
>> ><public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >So I'm in the midst of changing the cutlass bearing (as well as a bunch
>> >of other things) while I've been off the boat for the winter (yes, I
>> >know it's not winter anymore), and have come across a question:
>> >
>> >When I was unscrewing the casting that holds the cutlass bearing from
>> >the stern tube, the stern tube came out of the hull, instead of
>> >unscrewing from the casting. I've since gotten those 2 pieces apart with
>> >a vise grip and pipe wrench, but am thinking ahead to when I'll have to
>> >put it all back together.
>> >
>> >In particular, I'm thinking about how to fix the tube back in the hull
>> >at the right depth, and I'm thinking of smearing it with 5200 before
>> >jamming it in so that it stays put the next time the bearing needs to be
>> >changed. Where I'm sensing some difficulty is getting the tube/hull
>> >interface properly gooped up without having the goop also get into the
>> >threads joining the casting and tube (as I'll want to gum them up later
>> >with something a little less permanent).
>> >
>> >So of course, I'm looking for suggestions (preferably from people who
>> >have had to seal their tube back in place and can describe what did(n't)
>> >work for them). I have a hunch about something that *might* work, but
>> >I'll trust hard-earned experience over hunches any day..
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Kris
>> >
>> >-- 
>> >Kris Coward                    http://unripe.melon.org/
>> >GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >These businesses support your Association:
>> >http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> >Please support them.
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >Public-List mailing list
>> >Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> >http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
> -- 
> Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 5 May 2015 00:28:55 +0000 (UTC)
> From: anthony pensiero via Public-List
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
> all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
> Message-ID:
> <103132993.1525295.1430785735140.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> I just pulled my cutlass the other day and does anyone know the part 
> number for the cutlass ?which company nThanks Tony
>
>
>     On Monday, May 4, 2015 6:56 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>
>
> For filling the void, I'm thinking instead of a dam to ask my gf to grab
> the housing/bearing/tube assembly, slowly turn it clockwise, and "slide
> it in and out until you see white goo", while I keep applying the 5200
> to the top of the tube from my perch atop the engine (where I'll be
> delicately perched on my belly). Any thoughts on filling the void this
> way?
>
> -Kris
>
> On Mon, May 04, 2015 at 06:02:13PM -0400, Mike Lehman via Public-List 
> wrote:
>> Kris
>>
>> I have done this jobs several times. After removing the tube (which
>> you've already done) as Glenn noted, clean up all of the old Whitby
>> grey putty bedding compound. Screw the tube into the cutlass bearing
>> housing? and re-install the housing (with new cutlass bearing
>> installed) in the boat. The housing will determine the proper
>> alignment. Climb in over the engine and fill the void between the
>> tube/hull completely with 5200. You may need to create a dam with
>> duct tape to hold the 5200 in place. It's a wonderful way to become
>> one with your boat! :)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List
>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 5:02 PM
>> To: Kris Coward ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooping up the stern tube
>>
>> Kris,? I used 5200 for the same job, 10 years ago.? Still going
>> strong. Probably be a nightmare to take out 20 years from now.... Oh
>> well, that's what youth are for... Also, Dolce had original Whidby
>> grey putty bedding compound around? the stern tube bore.? I cleaned
>> that out extensively, and used solvents to degrease prior to
>> reinstalling with 5200.
>>
>> Cautionary note, Be very careful to reinstall and align the stern
>> tube and jack shaft as well as you can, so the engine- xmission is
>> able to be aligned properly. Otherwise you risk ruining your
>> transmission from to much side play induced by a misaligned stern
>> tube.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Glenn B
>>
>> Ex-dolce, 318
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> >On May 4, 2015, at 1:18 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List
>> ><public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >So I'm in the midst of changing the cutlass bearing (as well as a bunch
>> >of other things) while I've been off the boat for the winter (yes, I
>> >know it's not winter anymore), and have come across a question:
>> >
>> >When I was unscrewing the casting that holds the cutlass bearing from
>> >the stern tube, the stern tube came out of the hull, instead of
>> >unscrewing from the casting. I've since gotten those 2 pieces apart with
>> >a vise grip and pipe wrench, but am thinking ahead to when I'll have to
>> >put it all back together.
>> >
>> >In particular, I'm thinking about how to fix the tube back in the hull
>> >at the right depth, and I'm thinking of smearing it with 5200 before
>> >jamming it in so that it stays put the next time the bearing needs to be
>> >changed. Where I'm sensing some difficulty is getting the tube/hull
>> >interface properly gooped up without having the goop also get into the
>> >threads joining the casting and tube (as I'll want to gum them up later
>> >with something a little less permanent).
>> >
>> >So of course, I'm looking for suggestions (preferably from people who
>> >have had to seal their tube back in place and can describe what did(n't)
>> >work for them). I have a hunch about something that *might* work, but
>> >I'll trust hard-earned experience over hunches any day..
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Kris
>> >
>> >-- 
>> >Kris Coward? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? http://unripe.melon.org/
>> >GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733? 830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >These businesses support your Association:
>> >http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> >Please support them.
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >Public-List mailing list
>> >Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> >http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
> -- 
> Kris Coward??? ??? ??? ??? ??? http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733? 830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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> Please support them.
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 3028, Issue 2
> ******************************************** 




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