[Public-List] Electrical Systems

[Wes Gardner via Public-List]

Hi All,
OK, so you got me thinkin....(danger, danger...). I don't have fused mains so I just bought a couple of those blue seas battery post fuses #5191. I'll use 300 amp fuses in them.
 A PO wired my boat with batt. #1 direct to the starter (actually to the solenoid, but you know that). Batt. #2 runs up through the Perko switch and then back to batt. #1 such that the Perko switch is just used to parallel the two batteries. And yes, believe it or not, the Perko switch IS the off/1/2/all version, not just an on/off switch. I can't really understand why someone would do that but it's done. And done pretty well too, all the wiring is neatly wire tied every 3 inches or so. 

Now is a great time to do this as the engine is out of the boat. The plan is to just go back with a "standard" configuration with the Perko switch set up properly such that it will select off/1/2/all. Both "house" and starter will feed off the common terminal on the Perko switch.

The electric bilge pump will be directly wired (fused) to one of the batteries as it is now.

Any comments are welcome.

Wes

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 12:49 PM, Mike Meinhold via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Jonathan
> Almost all A30's have had significant changes to their wiring since
> delivery. Some much better than Whitby, some worse! The Whitby diagram is
> good to help understand some of the wiring, but you really need to make a
> wiring diagram of your boat first.
> 
> 
> I did not have main battery fuses when I got the boat. I mounted 2 250 amp
> fuses blocks facing foward on the aft bulkhead of the after battery
> compartment. They have blown only once - when I made a stupid wiring
> mistake.  If you have battery boxes - which you should - you probably don't
> have room for box-mounted fuses.
> 
> I replaced the little breaker box with a hinged panel under the bridge deck
> - there are arguments against doing that due to potential downflooding but
> I don't see much risk there.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> Mike
> Michael J. Meinhold 301 852 0619 meinhold272 at gmail.com
> 
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jonathan Bresler via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>> Folks,
>> 
>> Looking around the alberg30.org website, it appears that the information
>> available on the electrical system of our Alberg 30s consists of a wiring
>> diagram from Whitby and a reference to Bill Darden's Battery FAQ. (
>> alberg30.org/maintenance/Electrical).  Don't seem to find electrical
>> information in the _Maintenance_Manual_, corrosion information is there,
>> but not electrical.
>> 
>> Been reading Nigel Calder, 250 pages into the 400+ he has on electrical in
>> his most recent edition of _Boatowner's_Mechanical_and_Electrical_Manual_
>> Whew, its a big read.   Have looked at Don Casey's
>> _Sailboat_Maintenance_Manual_ (much shorter) as well as
>> _The_12_Volt_Doctor's_Practical_Handbook_.
>> 
>> Am i missing the link to the electrical data on the website ?
>> 
>> What have folks done with their electrical systems ?
>> 
>> Example: Dont have fuses in the positive cables from the batteries to
>> panel. Looks like Blue Sea has a Single Terminal Fuse Block that can be
>> directly affixed to the battery that might be good, if there is enough
>> vertical space available (about 2" required).  Calder recommends of 300A
>> ANL fuses to prevent nuisance blowing during starts.    pyacht.com
>> recommends fuses in the DC mains.  ABYC requires fuses within 7" of the
>> battery.  Casey wants us to install them as well.
>> 
>> Jonathan
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan M Bresler
>> Alberg 30 #262
>> Annapolis/Eastport MD
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