[Public-List] Forward bulkhead rot

[Wes Gardner via Public-List]

Now that's a repair! Well done and I agree 100%. If there's evidence of rot, do not cover it up....

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2016, at 3:56 PM, Rolph and Joan Townshend via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> For what it is worth - I have been reading the dialog on bulkhead rot and
> thought I would enter the discussion with some past experience.
> The chain plates make easy access for water to get to the bulkheads over
> the many years the  A30's have been active. Repair is not new - it has been
> done many times with success.
> First of all I don't recommend trying to "harden up" the rot with epoxy or
> "get rot" The bulkheads are structural components of the rig and take huge
> forces. They must be structurally sound in every way.
> When we discovered a bulkhead with rot it was usually very badly rotted -
> to the point where there was consideration of replacing the whole bulkhead.
> On one occasion that is what we did, and with success. But it was not easy.
> Getting the old one out was difficult, but getting the new one fitted into
> place was even more difficult. (and the 3/4 marine mahogany plywood is very
> expensive). So what we do now is to cut the bulkhead straight down from the
> deck to the bottom at the hull about 1 foot in from the outer edge of the
> bulkhead. Remove the chain plates and the attachment bolts and pull out the
> rotten piece. Using what is left of that piece as a template, cut a piece
> of 3/4 marine plywood the same size and put it in place with a snug fit up
> under the deck. Take another piece of the 3/4 ply and cut it to overlap the
> first piece top to bottom, but well over the* original* bulkhead in the
> hanging locker. Where this piece will cover the chain plate in the locker
> chisel out 1/4" deep area that will allow the chain plate to seat between
> the two pieces. Put the chain plate in place and predrill the 3 holes
> through the first ply piece, Put the second piece in place and drill the
> chain plate holes from the first piece through the chain plate and on
> through the second ply piece. Coat the second piece with epoxy and put in
> place, put the chain plate bolts in place and secure the two pieces of 3/4
> ply together with at least 10 SS bolts to tie the new ply to the old ply
> and attach the two 3/4 pieces to the flange down the inside of the hull
> with new, longer SS bolts, all nuts in the locker. To finish this get a
> piece of 1/4 or 3/8 mahogany ply (one sided) and epoxy that to the forward
> cabin side of the repair, overlapping the old bulkhead by at least 6" with
> SS oval head screws and apply varnish. The chain plate is bolted in place
> with 5/16 SS shafted bolts (not threaded the whole length of the bolt
> shaft). It is good to have a 1" X 1/4' piece of AL or SS in place of
> washers on both sides of the repair holding the chain plate in place. As an
> additional precaution we went to Bacon or to West Marine and got an 8 "
> chrome 3 hole extension plate and extended the chain plate from the bottom
> bolt on the locker side down the new bulkhead pieces for two more SS bolts.
> Now we have 5 bolts spreading the forces down the new bulkhead. These
> repairs have lasted well over many years IF there is no more water getting
> down the chain plate into the wood. Seal the chain plate well on deck.
> Build 3/8" thick fiberglass caps around each of the 6 chain plates on deck
> to seal them in place to keep water from draining into the bulkheads around
> the chain plates.
> Towney
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