[Public-List] Chainplates

Tue Jan 26 15:18:49 PST 2016

My reply back to Jim re: his message below:
-----------------------------

Hi, Jim,
Many thanks for your note. I'm a little unclear re: the aluminum though. Do
you have a photo?

My question is did you use the alum. only for preventing bolt pull-through?
Or were they (on both sides?) a supplement to the knee, so they pressed
against the underneath of the deck, providing support that way too?

Great to hear from you. I appreciate it!
Randy
Everett/Seattle WA

------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 12:40:18 -0500
> From: Jim Mennucci via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Randy Katz <randy.katz50 at gmail.com>,        Alberg 30 Public List --
>         open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Chainplates
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAKU7kti8dyRMvNWyfJwXTu1ekSCYtTGFqFTkhWzzviEr86M3ew at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> randy
>
> if you have washers the same size under the bolt head and the
> nut...then they're structurally equivalent and bolt direction doesn't
> matter.  Aesthetically bolt heads would look better in the main cabin.
> More importantly, best for you to use 5/16 bolts with the correct grip
> length i.e., insure that you have only the untlhreaded length of the bolt
> in bearing--no threads in contact with the wood/glass.  When I did the
> alberg many years ago, I used aluminum flat stock and transfer drilled the
> 3 bolt holes.  This makes it more improbable that the bolts can pull thru
> if the wood becomes soft and better distributes bearing loads from the
> bolts--it's hitting a finish nail with a sledge hammer but is the best of
> all.
>
> Jim Mennucci
>
> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:05 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > Yes, I've heard that 5/16 is the way to go. I also understand that
> > alternating the directions of the bolts is the way to go--like this: top
> > bolt, head sticking out; second bolt, nut end sticking out; third bolt,
> > head sticking out.
> >
> > Who knows?
> >
> > Randy Katz
> > #249 Simple Gifts
> > Seattle/Bellingham, WA
> >
> >
> >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 23:02:35 -0500
> > > From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > To: Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> > > Cc: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > >         <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] chainplates
> > > Message-ID: <C41E5648-59D2-4DE2-AF93-7E968758928C at gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
> > >
> > > Hey All,
> > >
> > > Did I also mention that someone did in truth "upgrade" to 1/4" shoulder
> > > bolts but then proceeded to run the bolt in "backwards" such that the
> > > chainplate still bore on the nut end and therefore the threaded portion
> > of
> > > the shoulder bolt, in effect doing absolutely nothing.
> > >
> > > Make sure your bolts are in the "right" way....
> > >
> > > I assume most folks have upgraded to 5/16"????
> > >
> > > Wes
> > >
> > > > On Nov 3, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Wes,  no reason to bond the chain plate.  Far better to reinforce the
> > > knee for the forward lower chainplates with several additional layers
> of
> > > fiberglass mat and roving, then drill, bed and reinstall the
> chainplates
> > > with 5/16" bolts.  I actually anchored all my upper chainplates with
> one
> > > 3/8" bolt, and then added 5/16" bolts.  The biggest risk after
> > reinstalling
> > > the chainplates with larger bolts is that the knee might pull away from
> > the
> > > hull. Hence the preventative measure of adding DG reinforcement.
> > > >
> > > > It's perfectly fine, actually necessary, to bed the thru deck area
> > where
> > > the chain plates emerge from the deck, with 4200 or 5200. The material
> > > flexes a bit and keeps out water- preventing rot and delamination in
> the
> > > knees and bulkheads.
> > > >
> > > > Glenn B.
> > > >
> > > > Sent from my iPad
> > > >
> > > >> On Nov 3, 2015, at 5:44 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> Yes, at first I was considering bonding the chain plate to either
> the
> > > knee or bulkhead but I think maybe the crevice corrosion factor may
> > prevent
> > > that.
> > > >>
> > > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > > >>
> > > >>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Greetings,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Was it Wes talking about replacing bolts and gooping over with
> 5200?
> > > If I
> > > >>> understand the comment correctly, I'd suggest using something other
> > > than
> > > >>> 5200 so access to the bolts could easily be had at a later date.
> > Also,
> > > >>> leaving the SS hardware open to the air as much as possible can
> > reduce
> > > >>> possibilities of crevice  corrosion.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> My apologies if I misunderstood the post!
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Regards,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Randy Katz
> > > >>> #249 Simple Gifts
> > > >>> Bellingham/Seattle WA

> 從我的 iPad 傳送
>