[Public-List] stern tube

charles pleisse via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Thu Jul 14 10:25:59 PDT 2016

It will be made immensely easier by removing the engine. Once that is out
of the way, you simply remove the cutlass housing, the stern tube should
come out with it.  (Good time to replace the cutlass bearing)
Clean it all up being sure to get down to clean fiberglass on the internal
surfaces of the hull surrounding the opening where the tube comes through.
The Dolfinite that was originally used is a bit stubborn to clean off
completely and will foul the new bedding if completely removed.
It was recommended to me to just bed the entire cutlass housing/stern tube
assembly with 5200.  This is where I deviated from advice given to me. The
permanence of 5200 scares me a bit.   Once everything is clean, reinstall
the tube and cutlass dry.  Then bed the tube from inside using 5200.  5200
has a suggested max bead thickness of 1/2" this means it needs to be
applied in layers no thicker than 1/2" and allowed to dry before applying
another layer.  I used about 2-1/2 tubes worth on the inside of the hull.
Once the 5200 around the stern tube has cured, remove the cutlass housing
and bed it in something less permanent that is recommended for use below
the water line.  I think I used Boatlife.  Then just toss the engine back
in and away you go, simple.  Seriously, I have an A4 which is rather simple
to remove. I probably would have been a bit more reluctant with a diesel.
I do recommend getting help with the realignment of the engine.  I
attempted that on my own and I'm not too sure I got it spot on.  I have a
come-along winch to hoist the engine with and a cradle I made that fits in
the cabin sole you're welcome to borrow if you think they may help.  Happy
to provide any photos offline if you think they may help.

Charles Pleisse
Sookie #221

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