[Public-List] Stern tube

Bob Bohmer via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Mon Jun 13 06:57:17 PDT 2016


On Jun 13, 2016 9:46 AM, "Greg Bover via Public-List" <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Greg, does your prop shaft have a damper on it? Someone installed one on
my boat #76. But I believe they didn't get the shaft length correct. There
was no room on the end of the shaft for the zinc ( the screw head hit the
rudder stock ). So I had the shaft cut down but that left less than a 1/4"
between the front of the prop and the back of the shaft log ( cutless
bearing housing). So my machinist cut the housing down some to gain a
little more distance between the two. Your boat can't be much newer than
mine, so I wonder why u have only 2" of shaft log. Mine was 3-1/2". Now it
is about 3-1/4". So they can be cut down, but how much, I don't know. Maybe
someone else can shed some light on the subject.

> >

> Thanks, Don, very helpful. Fortunately, maybe, there is no dolphite in
> evidence, I think the PO went through that in 2009. What is around the
tube
> is apparently 4200, as it is still somewhat pliable. It may be the same
> procedure though.
>
> I am still looking for a source for the new bearing. Everything I see
online
> is 3 1/2" long whereas what I measure is 2".
> Any suggestions?
>
> Greg Bover
> #114
> Gloucester
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Campbell [mailto:dk.campbell at xplornet.ca]
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 10:58 PM
> To: Greg Bover <gregbover at cbfisk.com>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Stern tube
>
> Hi Greg:
>     You have yourself quite a job. The only way to seal that tube well is
to
>
> remove all of the dolfinite that was the seal and that means getting in to
> the back of the shaft area and scraping all you can of it out, Then you
> could take a wire brush on a drill to rough it up and get more out, and
then
>
> it is the solvents. Be careful of inhaling whatever you use. use extra
> ventilation. Once it is clean as a whistle, you can reinstall the tube and
> the bracket on the exterior that holds the bearing. I used most of a tube
of
>
> 5200 to seal things because I did not want to have to go through the
process
>
> again and I put some on the join and then let it start to harden before
> adding more. The toughest part is under the tube, but access and care will
> suffice. That was about 10 years ago now and I still have a dry seal
between
>
> the tube and the water outside. IT IS A BIG CHORE TO DO IT WELL.  Any
> dolfinite in the way means you will have a leak.  I also had the motor out
> at the time so had better access., but for me to take out the motor and
get
> it back in is about a 3 1/2 hour job, which is not bad in the scheme of
> things.
>     My feeling is that you will have a constant leak here unless you get a
> good seal and the only way to do that is to have things really clean.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Bover via Public-List
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 7:00 PM
> To: List A-30
> Subject: [Public-List] Stern tube
>
> Test fired the Yanmar this morning prior to next weeks scheduled launch
when
>
> I put it in gear by mistake it rumbled and rattled unusually. I found the
> shaft to be loose in the cutless bearing. Three hours later after making a
> prop puller I got the bearing out but when I tried to unscrew it from the
> stern tube the tube came part way out with it. What do I need to do to
seal
> it when it goes back together?
> Also all the cutless bearings of the right od and id seem to be 3 1/2"
long
> whereas mine is just over 2". Does one just cut to length?
> Thanks to George for the good info on the website. And thanks to all you
all
>
> for your advice.
> Greg Bover
> #114 Pensive Flyer
> Gloucester
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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