[Public-List] What wood....

Mon Mar 7 07:36:22 PST 2016

Hi just my 2 cents worth but when you do the mast beam install the plywood vertically much more strength and don't need as many layersWhitby did it horizontal probably  to save plywood and labor You will never have to worry about it again

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Philip Bartlett via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> Date: 3/7/2016  10:03 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> Subject: Re: [Public-List] What wood.... 
Hi Gord
Replacing the toe rails is a job I am going to have to do sooner rather than later. I will be very interested to hear how your work progresses. 

When you instal the toe rails are you planning to put them on cold or do you think steaming will be required? Also, are you going to use one or two pieces per side?

Philip

Sent from my iPhone 

> On Feb 16, 2016, at 5:08 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> When I tackle this job, my latest thinking is that I will not disturb the
> pop rivets.  The new bolts securing the toe rail will supply integrity to
> the hull to deck joint, and quite sufficient I think.
> 
> The old rivets will be buried beneath the new epoxy/cloth job which will be
> laid over the new caulking along the deck edge and rivet heads.
> 
> Surprise is #426, being of the later style of deck construction.  Rather
> than a wooden toe rail, she has the moulded in mini-bulwark upon which the
> wood serves as a finishing cap rail.
> 
> I think the only part of the job which will be finicky will be the removal
> and replacement of the genoa sheet track on the port side where I've
> installed a second fuel tank. I can get a wrench in over the tank, but can't
> see.  I suppose I could remove the tank then replace it again;  I'll see how
> it goes.   The potentially messy part of the job is the epoxy/cloth job.  I
> do not want to run epoxy down over my nice topsides paint job.  I'm thinking
> I'm going to build a 'dam' of premium grade masking tape with which to
> confine the muck until it cures.   I'll run the tape on both inside and
> outside edges of the moulded toe rail and will also thicken the epoxy so it
> is a little less runny.  And of course I'll patrol the work until it's
> safely solidified enough not to run.
> 
> I'm not so fond of epoxy work... I was making a new forehatch for Touch
> Wood, the Folkboat, yesterday.  I remarked to myself yet again that wood
> work looks just as beautiful in the building stages as when completed and
> that tends to boost ones morale. Epoxy and glass work usually looks like
> hell until the final finish is applied. I am usually in a state of impatient
> near panic fearing I've made a mess....
> 
> Onwards,
> 
> Gord #426 Surprise
> 
> 
> On 2016-02-15, 1:56 PM, "Lawrence Morris via Public-List"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>> Greg,
>> 
>> Remember whatever wood type you choose. Those bolts holding down the toe rail
>> also are the main fastener system holding the hull to deck joint together.
>> Plan well and be careful when removing reinstalling the toe rail.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Larry 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Feb 15, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Greg Dawson via Public-List
>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Guys
>>> 
>>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on our boat is in poor shape, the hatch
>>> covers are falling to pieces and the toe rail has been cut in a couple of
>>> places. The teak trim on the stern is snapped in two and the boards either
>>> side of the cockpit are badly weathered. To add to this the mild steel bolts
>>> holding our toe rail down are so rusted that they are snapping when you try
>>> to adjust them. 
>>> 
>>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I find
>>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement teak for
>>> the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other stuff to buy
>>> with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas? Is there any
>>> reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided that I accept the
>>> additional work of varnishing each season?
>>> 
>>> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered drawing kicking
>>> around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently it has the
>>> Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite lining up as it
>>> should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I have to renew
>>> the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I might as well
>>> do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
>>> 
>>> Thanks 
>>> 
>>> Greg.
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> 
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