[Public-List] What wood....

Jonathan Adams via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Mon Mar 7 14:14:01 PST 2016


Wes - is there a good resource to learn how to do the scarf? I understand that one needs a scarfing jig. 
I lent my Good Old Boat to someone recently - I bet there is something in there for that.
Jonathan197

 
      From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
 To: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
 Sent: Monday, March 7, 2016 4:16 PM
 Subject: Re: [Public-List] What wood....
   
Hi All,

I used to build both cap, toe and rub rials.  The typical or traditional
joint is a scarf joint with the scarf running from the inside back to the
outside such that if it's rubbed along a piling it doesn't open the joint.

Wes

On Mon, Mar 7, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

>
> In a similar vein, I had a collision last August that damaged the
> forward section of my stbd toe rail. Looking at one of the joints
> already there, I'm pretty sure it's not the first such collision Candy
> Cane's seen. (I blame the new genoa for this collision; added 10% to
> prefer class rules over PHRF and was still figuring out how much harder
> it is to see traffic around more sail-- we were racing, of course.)
>
> My plans are to prepare a piece of teak the same width as the existing
> toe rail, and a bit longer than the distance from the bow to the current
> repair joint (because that joint is a straight cut, and I'd rather make
> a tongue like the other joints), steam it, and then clamp it above the
> existing section of rail to get the best possible match to the current
> alignment. Once it's dry (and before I take the clamps off), I'll mark
> down the location for all the screw holes, where the rounding off of the
> rail should be interrupted for the running light ledge, shape/position
> of ends, etc.
>
> Then I expect to take it back to my workshop, round off the edges, drill
> the screw holes, etc.; then bring it back to the boat for a day of
> taking off the old rail and putting on the new one, with the steam box
> handy, in case the new rail has straightened back out somewhat since the
> measuring step (the tongue should be on the new piece, in case it has to
> be steamed again).
>
> If anyone sees any pitfalls with this plan, or has improvements to
> suggest, I'd be glad to hear about it.
>
> Cheers,
> Kris
>
> On Mon, Mar 07, 2016 at 07:03:38AM -0800, Philip Bartlett via Public-List
> wrote:
> > Hi Gord
> > Replacing the toe rails is a job I am going to have to do sooner rather
> than later. I will be very interested to hear how your work progresses.
> >
> > When you instal the toe rails are you planning to put them on cold or do
> you think steaming will be required? Also, are you going to use one or two
> pieces per side?
> >
> > Philip
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Feb 16, 2016, at 5:08 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > When I tackle this job, my latest thinking is that I will not disturb
> the
> > > pop rivets.  The new bolts securing the toe rail will supply integrity
> to
> > > the hull to deck joint, and quite sufficient I think.
> > >
> > > The old rivets will be buried beneath the new epoxy/cloth job which
> will be
> > > laid over the new caulking along the deck edge and rivet heads.
> > >
> > > Surprise is #426, being of the later style of deck construction.
> Rather
> > > than a wooden toe rail, she has the moulded in mini-bulwark upon which
> the
> > > wood serves as a finishing cap rail.
> > >
> > > I think the only part of the job which will be finicky will be the
> removal
> > > and replacement of the genoa sheet track on the port side where I've
> > > installed a second fuel tank. I can get a wrench in over the tank, but
> can't
> > > see.  I suppose I could remove the tank then replace it again;  I'll
> see how
> > > it goes.  The potentially messy part of the job is the epoxy/cloth
> job.  I
> > > do not want to run epoxy down over my nice topsides paint job.  I'm
> thinking
> > > I'm going to build a 'dam' of premium grade masking tape with which to
> > > confine the muck until it cures.  I'll run the tape on both inside and
> > > outside edges of the moulded toe rail and will also thicken the epoxy
> so it
> > > is a little less runny.  And of course I'll patrol the work until it's
> > > safely solidified enough not to run.
> > >
> > > I'm not so fond of epoxy work... I was making a new forehatch for Touch
> > > Wood, the Folkboat, yesterday.  I remarked to myself yet again that
> wood
> > > work looks just as beautiful in the building stages as when completed
> and
> > > that tends to boost ones morale. Epoxy and glass work usually looks
> like
> > > hell until the final finish is applied. I am usually in a state of
> impatient
> > > near panic fearing I've made a mess....
> > >
> > > Onwards,
> > >
> > > Gord #426 Surprise
> > >
> > >
> > > On 2016-02-15, 1:56 PM, "Lawrence Morris via Public-List"
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Greg,
> > >>
> > >> Remember whatever wood type you choose. Those bolts holding down the
> toe rail
> > >> also are the main fastener system holding the hull to deck joint
> together.
> > >> Plan well and be careful when removing reinstalling the toe rail.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Larry
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPad
> > >>
> > >>> On Feb 15, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Greg Dawson via Public-List
> > >>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi Guys
> > >>>
> > >>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on our boat is in poor shape, the
> hatch
> > >>> covers are falling to pieces and the toe rail has been cut in a
> couple of
> > >>> places. The teak trim on the stern is snapped in two and the boards
> either
> > >>> side of the cockpit are badly weathered. To add to this the mild
> steel bolts
> > >>> holding our toe rail down are so rusted that they are snapping when
> you try
> > >>> to adjust them.
> > >>>
> > >>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I
> find
> > >>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement
> teak for
> > >>> the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other
> stuff to buy
> > >>> with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas? Is
> there any
> > >>> reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided that I
> accept the
> > >>> additional work of varnishing each season?
> > >>>
> > >>> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered
> drawing kicking
> > >>> around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently it
> has the
> > >>> Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite lining up
> as it
> > >>> should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I have
> to renew
> > >>> the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I might
> as well
> > >>> do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks
> > >>>
> > >>> Greg.
> > >>> _______________________________________________
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> --
> Kris Coward                                    http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
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