[Public-List] What wood....

Kris Coward via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Mon Mar 7 09:43:58 PST 2016 

Btw, Candy Cane is #583, so a liner boat, and the "toe rail" is a cap
rail.

-K

On Mon, Mar 07, 2016 at 12:42:47PM -0500, Kris Coward via Public-List wrote:
> 
> In a similar vein, I had a collision last August that damaged the
> forward section of my stbd toe rail. Looking at one of the joints
> already there, I'm pretty sure it's not the first such collision Candy
> Cane's seen. (I blame the new genoa for this collision; added 10% to
> prefer class rules over PHRF and was still figuring out how much harder
> it is to see traffic around more sail-- we were racing, of course.)
> 
> My plans are to prepare a piece of teak the same width as the existing
> toe rail, and a bit longer than the distance from the bow to the current
> repair joint (because that joint is a straight cut, and I'd rather make
> a tongue like the other joints), steam it, and then clamp it above the
> existing section of rail to get the best possible match to the current
> alignment. Once it's dry (and before I take the clamps off), I'll mark
> down the location for all the screw holes, where the rounding off of the
> rail should be interrupted for the running light ledge, shape/position
> of ends, etc.
> 
> Then I expect to take it back to my workshop, round off the edges, drill
> the screw holes, etc.; then bring it back to the boat for a day of
> taking off the old rail and putting on the new one, with the steam box
> handy, in case the new rail has straightened back out somewhat since the
> measuring step (the tongue should be on the new piece, in case it has to
> be steamed again).
> 
> If anyone sees any pitfalls with this plan, or has improvements to
> suggest, I'd be glad to hear about it.
> 
> Cheers,
> Kris
> 
> On Mon, Mar 07, 2016 at 07:03:38AM -0800, Philip Bartlett via Public-List wrote:
> > Hi Gord
> > Replacing the toe rails is a job I am going to have to do sooner rather than later. I will be very interested to hear how your work progresses. 
> > 
> > When you instal the toe rails are you planning to put them on cold or do you think steaming will be required? Also, are you going to use one or two pieces per side?
> > 
> > Philip
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone 
> > 
> > > On Feb 16, 2016, at 5:08 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > 
> > > When I tackle this job, my latest thinking is that I will not disturb the
> > > pop rivets.  The new bolts securing the toe rail will supply integrity to
> > > the hull to deck joint, and quite sufficient I think.
> > > 
> > > The old rivets will be buried beneath the new epoxy/cloth job which will be
> > > laid over the new caulking along the deck edge and rivet heads.
> > > 
> > > Surprise is #426, being of the later style of deck construction.  Rather
> > > than a wooden toe rail, she has the moulded in mini-bulwark upon which the
> > > wood serves as a finishing cap rail.
> > > 
> > > I think the only part of the job which will be finicky will be the removal
> > > and replacement of the genoa sheet track on the port side where I've
> > > installed a second fuel tank. I can get a wrench in over the tank, but can't
> > > see.  I suppose I could remove the tank then replace it again;  I'll see how
> > > it goes.   The potentially messy part of the job is the epoxy/cloth job.  I
> > > do not want to run epoxy down over my nice topsides paint job.  I'm thinking
> > > I'm going to build a 'dam' of premium grade masking tape with which to
> > > confine the muck until it cures.   I'll run the tape on both inside and
> > > outside edges of the moulded toe rail and will also thicken the epoxy so it
> > > is a little less runny.  And of course I'll patrol the work until it's
> > > safely solidified enough not to run.
> > > 
> > > I'm not so fond of epoxy work... I was making a new forehatch for Touch
> > > Wood, the Folkboat, yesterday.  I remarked to myself yet again that wood
> > > work looks just as beautiful in the building stages as when completed and
> > > that tends to boost ones morale. Epoxy and glass work usually looks like
> > > hell until the final finish is applied. I am usually in a state of impatient
> > > near panic fearing I've made a mess....
> > > 
> > > Onwards,
> > > 
> > > Gord #426 Surprise
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On 2016-02-15, 1:56 PM, "Lawrence Morris via Public-List"
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > 
> > >> Greg,
> > >> 
> > >> Remember whatever wood type you choose. Those bolts holding down the toe rail
> > >> also are the main fastener system holding the hull to deck joint together.
> > >> Plan well and be careful when removing reinstalling the toe rail.
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> Larry 
> > >> 
> > >> Sent from my iPad
> > >> 
> > >>> On Feb 15, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Greg Dawson via Public-List
> > >>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >>> 
> > >>> 
> > >>> Hi Guys
> > >>> 
> > >>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on our boat is in poor shape, the hatch
> > >>> covers are falling to pieces and the toe rail has been cut in a couple of
> > >>> places. The teak trim on the stern is snapped in two and the boards either
> > >>> side of the cockpit are badly weathered. To add to this the mild steel bolts
> > >>> holding our toe rail down are so rusted that they are snapping when you try
> > >>> to adjust them. 
> > >>> 
> > >>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I find
> > >>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement teak for
> > >>> the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other stuff to buy
> > >>> with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas? Is there any
> > >>> reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided that I accept the
> > >>> additional work of varnishing each season?
> > >>> 
> > >>> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered drawing kicking
> > >>> around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently it has the
> > >>> Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite lining up as it
> > >>> should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I have to renew
> > >>> the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I might as well
> > >>> do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
> > >>> 
> > >>> Thanks 
> > >>> 
> > >>> Greg.
> > >>> _______________________________________________
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> -- 
> Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3

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