[Public-List] Refinishing interior teak

Michael Connolly via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Sun Oct 9 07:24:46 PDT 2016 

I prefer a teak oil finish myself, applied sparingly and wiped down. The Cetol Natural I have used on a tiller handle with excellent results. The "Natural" product does not have any noticeable "stain" or "Colorant" to my eye. The older yellow/orange Cetol was horrible and made everything look like plastic. 

Because the furniture is inside I believe that the teak oil will hold up fine. Problem is that P.O.'s probably have applied way too much and too often. I would strip off as John suggested and then perhaps use a teak cleaner and then wipe on a teak oil just as John suggested wiping on the Cetol. To keep the interior finish looking nice someone else suggested using Murphy's Oil soap to clean and brighten up the surface. Mruphy's is an old, old product which is hard to beat. This process I have used on flag staffs which are out in the weather but do not stay out in the weather and they have held up for years with only an occasional addition of another wiped on top coat. 

Whatever you decide, I enjoy the look of a rubbed finish on interior furniture vs. a bright varnish look. My two cents. 
Michael #133 


----- Original Message -----

From: "Rolph and Joan Townshend via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
To: "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca>, "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2016 8:43:14 AM 
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Refinishing interior teak 

I would not use Cetol. Even a small amount of stain in it changes the teak. 
I would simply light sand the wood to clear any imperfections then apply 3 
coats of a satin marine varnish. Helmsman has satin. The finish goes well 
in the interior of the A30 and the varnish will last years and years since 
it never gets weather or sun. 
Rolph Townshend 

On Sun, Oct 9, 2016 at 7:46 AM, John Birch via Public-List < 
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote: 

> Greg, 
> The two subsequent single stain coat treatments I was referring to was on 
> the sole only, the bulkheads have not needed any further attention. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> John 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Greg Dawson 
> To: sunstone at cogeco.ca ; public-list at lists.alberg30.org 
> Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2016 7:36 AM 
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Refinishing interior teak 
> 
> 
> Thanks John 
> 
> That was petty much what I was thinking, I just wasn't sure how to deal 
> with the oiled finish. 
> 
> Greg 
> 
> 
> ---- Original Message ---- 
> From: John Birch via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org 
> > 
> Sent: Sun, Oct 9, 2016 7:18 am 
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Refinishing interior teak 
> 
> Hi Greg, 
> 
> Being one of those north of the border, thank you for the Thanksgiving 
> best 
> wishes. We all have much to be thankful for to be sure. 
> 
> We refinished the interior of Sunstone (A-37) which is a similar vintage 
> to 
> your A-30. 
> 
> We used Cetol M, then the only marine based Cetol available. If we were 
> to 
> do it again, we would use Cetol Natural, which is what we have used on 
> the 
> latest exterior refinish and it look great and holds up well. 
> 
> We haven't needed to refinish the interior done 20 years ago because it 
> has 
> held up so well. 
> 
> We used acetone and plenty of paper towels to strip off any old oils and 
> painted on the Cetol, but while wet, wiped it off using rags so that it 
> went 
> on like a stain. Did 3 coats that way, leaving only a minimal thickness 
> and 
> the grain shows through beautifully. We then stripped the horribly grimy 
> sole using a two part teak stripper without the brush, just wiped it on 
> and 
> using a hose washed it off and pumped the bilge with lots of water. We 
> were 
> on the hard so it didn't get into the water. Once the sole had dried, we 
> left it for over a week, we did the stain type treatment three times. 
> 
> That was 20 years ago. We have done two single stain coat treatments 
> since. 
> The interior looks great. 
> 
> The beauty of using Cetol as a stain is there is only a small buildup, so 
> the grain shows through. On the sole, when it gets wet, it is no more 
> slippery than a wet untreated teak deck. So the traction is good. 
> 
> I cringe when I see varnished piano finished soles - yikes, looks great, 
> but 
> a skating rink in a gale. 
> 
> Cetol is the ticket, suggest using Cetol Natural - and use tack cloths at 
> every stage. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> John 
> 
> Sunstone A-37 MkI KC-65 1970 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Dawson via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2016 6:47 AM 
> Subject: [Public-List] Refinishing interior teak 
> 
> 
> > 
> > Hi there 
> > 
> > I am in the process of repainting the interior of my non liner boat. 
> When 
> > we got her several of the doors had fallen to pieces and there was mold 
> > across the cabin ceiling. Dealing with the ceiling is easy enough but 
> I am 
> > wondering how best to refinish the teak. I am thinking of using Cetol 
> > which gave good results on our other boat. What do you think and how 
> would 
> > you prep the wood before application. The reason I ask is that I think 
> > that the wood has been oiled and is very dark. Previously I have only 
> had 
> > to deal with stripping a finish similar to Cetol and reapplying. 
> > 
> > Your thoughts and help would be appreciated. 
> > 
> > Happy Thanksgiving to all who are north of the border. 
> > 
> > Greg Dawson 
> > _______________________________________________ 
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> 
> 
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