[Public-List] Leaks etc....Lake Murray Sailing Videos

Gordon Laco via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Wed Sep 7 10:58:23 PDT 2016


Hello gang. 

Michael, good idea with the oakum, but it will only work if its packed hard tight with something solid on sides and bottom.   When its used in boat caulking, it has to be pounded firmly between planks whose edges are planed so the outside space between is wide, and the space inside narrow and nearly closed.  

I suppose one might pound oakum up into the cavity between chainplate and deck, but oakum would not cope well with movement.  

Better I think to immobilize the chainplates as far as possible; then pay the remaining space with 4200 or whatever.   Then be prepared to razor out and redo the paying whenever you see cracks or splits through the season. 

I have a squint at ours after every hard sail or daily when on trips.  

Gord Surprise 426. 

On 2016-09-07, at 10:52 AM, Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Skeep, 
> Higher quality boats have "curbs" built-up around chain plate deck openings. This really helps with the general rain water intrusion. Green water is something else. 
> My thought is that because of the regular movement between the deck and chain plates that this is a situation which requires regular inspection and maintenance. As such there is no permanent fix. Why not use something which is easy to remove and replace as the sealant? I am thinking of Oakum - tarred hemp - same as used to chink wooden boat planking. Fabricate the "curbs" as above to increase surface area for the Oakum to work and also to redirect rain water around the chain plate deck slots. Pack Oakum in place and top off with something like white 3M 4200 to make look pretty. Both these materials would be easy enough to pick out with a gland packing extractor to replace in the future. 
> One could probably pick out and repack all six chain plates in two hours time. My thought is do this every two or three years and you have solved the chain plate leak problem. 
> 
> You have a liner boat so it is different than mine with solid teak toe rails. I have experienced leaks where the through bolts hold the toe rail and genoa track in place. This is directly above the hull-deck joint so no core should be present. Originally I felt that I would have to remove the entire toe rail and re-bed. I wonder if it would be effective to remove the through bolt / seal the hole from below / and then pump bedding compound down through the fastener hole from the top side. The concept being that only the hole area needs to be sealed between the toe rail and the deck. If enough sealant/bedding compound squeezed out around the fastener hole then when the fastener is replaced and retightened the hole would be sealed without having to remove the entire toe rail. One could do a section at a time so the toe rail might lift up a bit to allow bedding compound to squeeze out around the fastener hole. Major issue is that you can't really clean the mating surfaces or have
>  visual confirmation that bedding compound went where you want it to be. 
> 
> I have viewed your Alberg 30 Blog and the sailing videos you produced with your Typhoon on Lake Murray. All of it very nice. You remind me of another Alberg 30 owner in Maine - Jeff Fongemie. His and your work is first rate and nicely documented. Your boats are dearly Loved and it shows. 
> Michael #133 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
> From: "Bill McCoy via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2016 6:25:36 AM 
> Subject: [Public-List] Leaks etc.... 
> 
> Good advice Wes and Don, thank you much! 
> 
> This hull 614, was surveyed before purchase and the surveyor noted core moisture readings on the cabin top near the mast. I'll probably probe that eventually as right now isolating drops of water are my first priority. Post storm, I had identified the offending bolts, marking on the interior bulkhead bolts which were dropping water in my Berg. Interesting that the rivets exhibited no evidence of water themselves--curious since they looked rather inefficient anyway. 
> 
> As Don noted, the photos in my blog evidence a major water intrusion near the port chain plates which had been remedied at one time. As my chain plates are returning soon from re-manufacture in Texas, I will insure a healthy deck prevention program to stave off the leak at that juncture. I do wish there was some sort of boot that could assist the deck-side entry of the individual plates in addition to sealant? 
> 
> Am going to take a minimalist approach to the presenting problem first and increase my velocity of attack in proportion to the effect of the fix. Your advice is greatly appreciated! 
> 
> Skeep 
> 
> 
> 
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