[Public-List] Leaks etc....Lake Murray Sailing Videos

Wes Gardner via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Wed Sep 7 11:58:36 PDT 2016


Hi All,

This year, after replacing all the chainplate bolts, I went with BoatLife
polysulphide and after putting the rail in the water on several occasions
and just general use, I still have NO leaks.  Will I consider the butyl
tape route - maybe...

Wes

On Wed, Sep 7, 2016 at 1:58 PM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hello gang.
>
> Michael, good idea with the oakum, but it will only work if its packed
> hard tight with something solid on sides and bottom.   When its used in
> boat caulking, it has to be pounded firmly between planks whose edges are
> planed so the outside space between is wide, and the space inside narrow
> and nearly closed.
>
> I suppose one might pound oakum up into the cavity between chainplate and
> deck, but oakum would not cope well with movement.
>
> Better I think to immobilize the chainplates as far as possible; then pay
> the remaining space with 4200 or whatever.   Then be prepared to razor out
> and redo the paying whenever you see cracks or splits through the season.
>
> I have a squint at ours after every hard sail or daily when on trips.
>
> Gord Surprise 426.
>
> On 2016-09-07, at 10:52 AM, Michael Connolly via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > Skeep,
> > Higher quality boats have "curbs" built-up around chain plate deck
> openings. This really helps with the general rain water intrusion. Green
> water is something else.
> > My thought is that because of the regular movement between the deck and
> chain plates that this is a situation which requires regular inspection and
> maintenance. As such there is no permanent fix. Why not use something which
> is easy to remove and replace as the sealant? I am thinking of Oakum -
> tarred hemp - same as used to chink wooden boat planking. Fabricate the
> "curbs" as above to increase surface area for the Oakum to work and also to
> redirect rain water around the chain plate deck slots. Pack Oakum in place
> and top off with something like white 3M 4200 to make look pretty. Both
> these materials would be easy enough to pick out with a gland packing
> extractor to replace in the future.
> > One could probably pick out and repack all six chain plates in two hours
> time. My thought is do this every two or three years and you have solved
> the chain plate leak problem.
> >
> > You have a liner boat so it is different than mine with solid teak toe
> rails. I have experienced leaks where the through bolts hold the toe rail
> and genoa track in place. This is directly above the hull-deck joint so no
> core should be present. Originally I felt that I would have to remove the
> entire toe rail and re-bed. I wonder if it would be effective to remove the
> through bolt / seal the hole from below / and then pump bedding compound
> down through the fastener hole from the top side. The concept being that
> only the hole area needs to be sealed between the toe rail and the deck. If
> enough sealant/bedding compound squeezed out around the fastener hole then
> when the fastener is replaced and retightened the hole would be sealed
> without having to remove the entire toe rail. One could do a section at a
> time so the toe rail might lift up a bit to allow bedding compound to
> squeeze out around the fastener hole. Major issue is that you can't really
> clean the mating surfaces or ha
>  ve
> >  visual confirmation that bedding compound went where you want it to be.
> >
> > I have viewed your Alberg 30 Blog and the sailing videos you produced
> with your Typhoon on Lake Murray. All of it very nice. You remind me of
> another Alberg 30 owner in Maine - Jeff Fongemie. His and your work is
> first rate and nicely documented. Your boats are dearly Loved and it shows.
> > Michael #133
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > From: "Bill McCoy via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2016 6:25:36 AM
> > Subject: [Public-List] Leaks etc....
> >
> > Good advice Wes and Don, thank you much!
> >
> > This hull 614, was surveyed before purchase and the surveyor noted core
> moisture readings on the cabin top near the mast. I'll probably probe that
> eventually as right now isolating drops of water are my first priority.
> Post storm, I had identified the offending bolts, marking on the interior
> bulkhead bolts which were dropping water in my Berg. Interesting that the
> rivets exhibited no evidence of water themselves--curious since they looked
> rather inefficient anyway.
> >
> > As Don noted, the photos in my blog evidence a major water intrusion
> near the port chain plates which had been remedied at one time. As my chain
> plates are returning soon from re-manufacture in Texas, I will insure a
> healthy deck prevention program to stave off the leak at that juncture. I
> do wish there was some sort of boot that could assist the deck-side entry
> of the individual plates in addition to sealant?
> >
> > Am going to take a minimalist approach to the presenting problem first
> and increase my velocity of attack in proportion to the effect of the fix.
> Your advice is greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Skeep
> >
> >
> >
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