[Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

[Wes Gardner via Public-List]

If you use plywood, pay particular attention to the EDGES. This is where ply can soak up water and cause rot/d'élimination. I think if it were mine, I'd handle it sort of like real layed teak decks, using a glue/adhesive to stick "slats" of teak down, then once set, use polysulphide in the caulk lines.

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 1, 2017, at 8:10 PM, Mpcbi via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> I am almost reaching the end of useful life for my teak covering as well and was investigating teak and Holly sole plywood as a possible replacement.  My thought was to epoxy seal the underside of the plywood and sand the surface to apply cetol marine light and cetol gloss which is what I am using currently.  I would bond all to the seats with 3m4200 so it can be removed by the next owner in 45 years! I am also tryng to figure out how to reinforce the fiberglass seats as they sag when stepped on 
> 
> There was no more teak inlay on my hatch so I just refinished the underlay plywood with cetol, looks pretty decent so I will not bother doing anything to it.  I did stain the underside with minnwax red mahogany to match interior woodwork and cetol glossed the works, not too shabby overall.
> 
> cheers,
> Maurice Avoca 322
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
>> Le 1 févr. 2017 à 17:00, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> a écrit :
>> 
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> My boat (Hull #495) has teak plywood inset into fibreglass for both
>> the cockpit seats / locker lids and the sliding hatch. After only 45 years,
>> the teak is starting to rot. The depression in the cockpit seats
>> is 3/4" deep. The depression on the sliding hatch cover is 3/8" deep.
>> This piece of teak has fore-and-aft cuts on the bottom side so
>> the plywood can bend to meet the curve.
>> 
>> I'd like to switch to teak battens, with black sealant in between.
>> 
>> Has anybody done this?
>> 
>> SG
>> 
>> 
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