[Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

Fri Feb 3 12:47:16 PST 2017

I may do that, sand and paint, on the companionway inlay if it progresses beyond the tartan stage of decay…  I reckon that it’s nearly always in the housed position when I’m aboard, so I don’t see it anyway.

Gord #426 Surprise

On 2017-02-03, 2:59 PM, "Public-List on behalf of Wes Gardner via Public-List" <public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org on behalf of public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

    Kinda seems like the solution is fill it in, glass it over and paint it

    Sent from my iPad

    > On Feb 3, 2017, at 2:15 PM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
    > 
    > FWIW, I do have a liner boat, and the previous owner replaced the plywood inserts with solid teak. Eventually water got under that, causing it to warp and crack. One board popped out altogether.
    > 
    > - George
    > 
    >> On 2/2/17 12:07 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List wrote:
    >> I think I would follow Mike's comments and suggestions to the letter.
    >> I believe, as Mike points out, that the seats are problematic because
    >> of the flex. I also agree that plywood may not be the answer here
    >> over the long term. My boat is a non-liner boat so doesn't have those
    >> issues, it has solid wood seats and a plywood main hatch, which did
    >> fail and was rebuilt/reinforced with solid wood exterior ribs and
    >> then glassed over and painted.
    >> 
    >> Sent from my iPad
    >> 
    >>> On Feb 2, 2017, at 12:02 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
    >>> 
    >>> Stephen,
    >>> 
    >>> I have been through this a number of times on several Albergs. The bad part
    >>> about teak veneer plywood, is 1. over the years the veneer wears off and
    >>> you see the opposing grain for the layers below. 2. Particularly on the
    >>> seats, the perimeter leaks and water gets under the plywood and with
    >>> freeze-thaw the plywood eventually gets loose and comes out.
    >>> 
    >>> For the main hatch and the lazarette the fix I did on our boat #505 (Liner
    >>> boat) was similar to what Larry Morris did. I removed the plywood entirely
    >>> and installed solid teak strips with epoxy beneath and epoxy between the
    >>> joints in the strips. For the epoxy between the strips was I added a white
    >>> coloring to make it look like teak and holly. I keep my hatches finished
    >>> with Cetol Natural (now using AwlWood MA) and they look great and have held
    >>> up for 20+ years without a problem. More recently, on other boats I have
    >>> repaired, I milled 5/4 teak the strips to have an edge overlap the
    >>> perimeter all the way around, so water cannot get into the edges between
    >>> the wood and the fiberglass edges. This lip makes the wood about 1/4" proud
    >>> of the fiberglass, but has worked out well and survived the test of time.
    >>> 
    >>> The seats are a different story. I was perplexed why these repairs failed
    >>> around the edges and let water get under the wood and eventually pop up.
    >>> This is not the case with the seats that have to overlap on later repairs,
    >>> but did happen on my original fix. So, I once again remove the wood and
    >>> this time installed rubber imitation teak and holly on the seats, like you
    >>> find on many more modern boats. Two problems with this 1. water still found
    >>> its way under the rubber and 2. while it looked good at first, after a few
    >>> years it looked like shit (nautical term). So why do the seats fail? I
    >>> concluded that is it because we stand on the seats and that cause the seal
    >>> around the perimeter to fail. So, my permanent fix for the seat, which has
    >>> now held up for 10 years without and problems...I glassed them over. I dug
    >>> out everything; cut pieces of Coosa Board
    >>> http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm and epoxied that in the seats
    >>> for strength. Then glassed over the Coosa Board, ground it smooth, and
    >>> painted it with KIWI Grip. Okay, so it takes some of the wood-look away,
    >>> but the Albergs have teak coamings and toe rails and hatches so it still
    >>> looks good. The seats are now strong, you can jump on them, they do not
    >>> need periodic refinishing, and the KIWI grip gives a very nice non-skid
    >>> finish so no more busting your ass while slipping on wet varnish wood.
    >>> 
    >>> Hope this helps.
    >>> 
    >>> 
    >>> 
    >>> On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 5:00 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
    >>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
    >>> 
    >>>> 
    >>>> Hi,
    >>>> 
    >>>> My boat (Hull #495) has teak plywood inset into fibreglass for both
    >>>> the cockpit seats / locker lids and the sliding hatch. After only 45 years,
    >>>> the teak is starting to rot. The depression in the cockpit seats
    >>>> is 3/4" deep. The depression on the sliding hatch cover is 3/8" deep.
    >>>> This piece of teak has fore-and-aft cuts on the bottom side so
    >>>> the plywood can bend to meet the curve.
    >>>> 
    >>>> I'd like to switch to teak battens, with black sealant in between.
    >>>> 
    >>>> Has anybody done this?
    >>>> 
    >>>> SG
    >>>> 
    > 
    > -- 
    > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    >  When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
    >  I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
    >  So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
    >  So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
    >               'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
    > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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    > 
    > 
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