[Public-List] Following up with the battery/ rewire thread.

[John Boor via Public-List]

Recharging and keeping two different types of battery fully charged is a
problem a lot of boat owners have, recharge start battery, switch to house
battery forget to isolate afterwards then you may end up with flat
batteries.  You can add electronic switches and circuits to charge each
type but you are still re-charging two different battery types.  On my new
boat with 6 6v 225Ahr golf cart batteries and one 1000 CCA start battery I
have done thi,s I connected a large battery isolator diode between the
house bank and starterbattery with 80 amp fuse problem solved.  This is
based on the following, house bank charges at 14.4V (deep cycle) starter
battery charges at 13.8V (standard wet cell) isolator diode has a forward
voltage drop of 0.6V, standard for a silicon diode so 14.4-13.8 =0.6 this
way starter battery is always full and cannot be depleted by inadvertent
switch position.

John Boor

> I had the old trailer connectors that powered the instrument panel,
> alternator, starter and every other mechanical system. After talking to
> Tim Williams, I took that out and hard wired everything with bigger gauge
> and changed some of the routing. I've never had a problem with the starter
> since. And the starter is relativity new as I had that rebuilt in 2015.
>
> My big issue is with the battery. I need to increase capacity, and I had
> issues (same reason with the starter) with the alternator not charging
> anything very well but all that has been fixed, albeit a big hit on the
> current batteries as they have been fully discharged once or twice before
> I realized what was going on.
>
> Now the wiring is not the lamps cord, most of it is marine grade wiring.
> But the picture below is the current configuration.... I seriously just
> want to have another beer every time I see it. It works, but its very
> confusing and I am not sure it is the best way. I am very particular.
>
> Thank you all for the help so far!
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