[Public-List] Use of Chisels

Mon Mar 20 10:44:50 PDT 2017

I second that… the idea of using a chisel and pushing makes my hair stand on end…  you could very easily do a lot of damage.  Much better to use a scraper and pull…  I favour carbide blade scrapers… they are sharp out of the package, stay sharp for years, and you have a lot of control over where you’re digging…

Gord #426

On 2017-03-20, 1:02 PM, "Public-List on behalf of Chris Martin via Public-List" <public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org on behalf of public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

    Be careful. I use paint scrapers and sharpen them regularly. I still make a few nicks or deep scratches that I fill with epoxy. A little extra paint doesnt bother me, as long as its attached to the hull. Scrape off the loose stuff and paint. 
    Maybe its a built in reason for being slow? :)

          From: Anders Bro via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
     To: Greg Dawson <gregdaws at aol.co.uk>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
     Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 12:51 PM
     Subject: Re: [Public-List] Use of Chisels

    HI Greg,

    As of now, I don't have much experience, but I tried it, as you suggest, using the chisel the wrong way around. In this manner, I seemed to have a bit more control. The sharp edge of the chisel seemed to find its way underneath the  soft paint and rode above the harder under layers. I expect that in my case, it is not gelcoat, but rather an epoxy barrier coat. In my limited experience, I didn't have any problem in sliding over the harder underlayer. As the bottom paint adhered better, I had to use a smidge more down pressure. I tried it with the chisel right side up... and was a bit nervous. The PS commenter said that he used smaller width chisels on the more resistant paint, but heck if you can strip the majority of the boat in this manner, that would make a huge inroad along the path of stripping. I did note that the taste of copper was on my tongue after my 1 minute trial, so there is still something nasty in the air, suggesting the use of a mask, even though the majority 
     of the paint is coming off in chunks.

    I would wonder if this chisel approach would work with a hard paint as opposed to the much softer ablative paint. As far as action goes, it looks like in some instances the paint is being cut, in others it feels like the chisel is splitting the paint off the undercoat. As the PS commenter suggested, the chisels will need frequent sharpening. I notices a slight dulling in my limited experiment...

    He also suggested using a 2" wide chisel for the initial effort, followed by narrower ones for the more stubbornly adhered paint. As soon as the eBay 2" slick comes in, I will give it a try... (could it be too wide, making it more difficult to move through the paint???) My paint is also about 1/8" thick.

    I hope this helps.

    Anders

    Sent from my iPhone

    > On Mar 18, 2017, at 12:29 PM, Greg Dawson via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
    > 
    > 
    > So I have the same problem with removing antifouling paint and in my case the previous owner claims to have stripped the boat and applied a barrier coat before applying the antifouling. In truth I think that he simply applied antifouling paint over what was already there. I too have looked at the various options and found them all very costly whilst being potentially very environmentally unfriendly. 
    > 
    > By accident whilst digging around my rudder mountings discovered that a standard paint scraper worked quite well (the kind that looks like a screwdriver with a blade attached). At least on the thick areas. As my antifouling is up to 1/8th of an inch in places it flew off. When you say using the flat edge do you mean effectively upside down? I'm going to try this, hopefully without gouging large chunks out of the gel coat....
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