[Public-List] Which caulk for cockpit teak combing joining to fiberglass?

[jreadams6]

Yes - it is that blackness that looks bad, and who can keep varnish
completely sealed - sooner or later...

I need to make sure all my videos are up on you tube - did you see this
one? https://youtu.be/SRaUVrHdCZ4

It is g a good thing that the Chesapeake has a mud bottom! This starts with
a team mate saying that I can go on teh other side of that "thing"
(marker). That never ends well.

Jonathan

On Mon, Nov 12, 2018 at 9:18 AM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:

> Good morning Jonathan -
>
> I am guessing that in Option 1 you are referring to red oak.  That wood is
> not appropriate for marine use.  White oak, in complete contrast, is very
> durable, very close grained, and does indeed take finishes well.
>
> Both varieties of oak can be successfully varnished - there’s no need for
> ridges etc to remain if normal sanding and coating is applied.   But red
> oak will rot quickly.  White oak may last centuries if it’s looked after.
>
> When varnished, white oak has a bright blonde colour… I’d say the only
> disadvantage it has is that it has a tendency to turn black if water gets
> through the varnish.
>
> Gordon Laco
> www.gordonlaco.com
>
> PS I’ve just discovered the on-line coverage of your club’s racing on
> youtube.  Saw you and your boat in a couple of the races. You certainly
> sail in heavy traffic sometimes!
>
>
>
> On Nov 12, 2018, at 9:10 AM, jreadams6 via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> I did what Mercelo did with the D shaped seal and also used caulking. It
> still leaks enough to need some caulking maintenance this year - it leaks
> in an area that got bashed in a jibe, so maybe not the seal's fault. Some
> comments on the other posts:
>
> 1. Oak is much cheaper, but does not wear well at all and is hard to
> maintain - it is a hard wood, with ridges that collect water, dirt and
> ultimately mold. Many people when using Oak in furniture will fill the
> ridges with a filler befor finishing it. I have seen boats that use oak and
> it is not pretty over time. You could probably use a different wood that
> would not be that much more expensive - mahogony comes to mind.
>
> 2. On leaving a gap with washers, this is interesting. On the  one hand it
> keeps the area under the wood from getting wet and staying wet - which
> makes it impossible for any varnish to stay on. However, then your butt
> gets wet when you are sailing in weather. I know Wes did away with the
> coaming, but he only ever sails in the Severn River. The Alberg is  wet
> boat upwind in any kind of seaway and breeze. The water sprays up on the
> windward side, and then rolls down the deck to the aft end of the coaming
> and from there can make its way to the lee side. Along the way if it can,
> it will try and get into the cockpit.
>
> My $0.02.
>
> Jonathan
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 12, 2018 at 5:20 AM Jonathan Bresler via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> Don't know which caulk to use between the coamings and the deck.
> With you, I am also looking forward to see what is recommended.
>
> Replacing the coamings with teak would be quite expensive.
> So its quite understandable to be looking at other materials.
> Wes Gardner installed "mini" coamings, just enough to fill the
> "shelf" in the fiberglass and mounted the winches directly to the
> side decks.  If you search the list archives, expect you will find
> his notes on this.
>
> You might want to consider oak coamings.  Oak is much cheaper
> than teak and if sealed well, may last quite a number of years.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Jonathan
> Rather than Starboard, you might want to
>
> On Sun, Nov 11, 2018 at 7:45 PM Randy Katz via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> Greetings, All,
>
> I finally got my ratty combing boards off the boat. It wasn’t that
> difficult, but I found plugged screws in the outside quarter round (one
>
> at
>
> each end, along the deck/combing joint) that went snuggly into the deck.
>
> I
>
> wondered if this was the original installation.
>
> Many layers of chipped, worn Cetol have to go; I’m planning to clean and
> oil the boards for an easier maintenance regime.
>
> I know that when I replace them I’ll need to caulk between the combing
>
> and
>
> their fiberglass seats, on he outside of the cockpit. I read about butyl,
> but it seems to degrade in UV. Polysulfide seems likely, a better choice,
> but which brand/what type?
>
> I understand some have replaced the teak with plastic Starboard— any
> comments about that idea?
>
> Many thanks, best Regards,
>
> Randy Katz
> #259 Simple Gifts
> Seattle/Bellingham
> --
>
> Randall Katz
> 910 - 32nd Ave.
> Seattle, WA 98122
> 206-850-7350
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> --
> Jonathan M Bresler
> S/V Constance Alberg 30 #262
> Annapolis/Eastport MD
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> Jonathan Adams
> 443-223-2534
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Jonathan Adams
443-223-2534