[Public-List] Bulkhead Repair

Mon Oct 22 12:54:15 PDT 2018

John - I had that same problem with the starboard bulkhead. I had earlier
helped a friend replace the whole bulkhead and that was almost imposible.
Very, very difficult. So I cut the bulkhead straight down from top to
bottom about 8 inches from the hull. Used the piece as a pattern for a
replacement piece. I bought 1/2 of a sheet 1/4 inch thick of marine teak
plywood, (teak on one side).and coupled that with a piece of plywood to
bring the thickness to the same as the original bulkhead. Then made a
backing plate of 3/4 plywood to mount on the back side of the cut 6 inches
on the remaining bulkhead material and ran all the way to the hull from top
to bottom.  Mounted the new teak piece in place and epoxeyed the 3/4 ply to
the replacement piece and to 6 inches of the original bulkhead, using SS
bolts to secure the 3/4 ply piece to the old bulkhead and the whole thing
to the hull flange with the replacement teak ply on the bow side of the
flange and the 3/4 piece on the stern side of the flange. I had to cut the
thickness of the flange off of the 3/4 piece and the thicknes of the
chainplate off as well so the chainplate mounted between the two ply
pieces. so that the two pieces were epoxeyed exactly together over the
entire surface. The flange bolts went through the teak replacement piece,
the flange , then the 3/4 ply with washers and nuts tight. The chainplate
dropped into the slot between the two plys and with lots of caulk was
bolted in place.
Never had any trouble with that problem again.
Towney

On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 1:58 PM Jonathan Bresler via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Dont know the thickness that you need.  I have not taken that measurement,
> as far as I know.
> "g10 fiberglass sheets" search in Google will show many sources.
> An example is
>
> https://www.eplastics.com/sheets/fiberglass/g10-fr4-epoxy/custitem17/0.500/custitem19/Natural
>
> Might be worth checking to see if its less expensive to buy two 1/4" pieces
> and laminate them together yourself.
> Just checked prices at eplastics ... not worth the effort to laminate ...
> less than a dollar difference in price.
>
> The difference between FR4 and G10 is
> "The main difference between NEMA Grades *G10* and *FR4* is that *FR4* is a
> fire retardant grade of *G10*. Therefore, *FR4* can be safely substituted
> where *G10* is called out, while *G10* can never be substituted where
> *FR4* is
> called for."
>
> On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 12:59 PM John Irving via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > I’m not familiar with G10.  Where would I find it?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Oct 22, 2018, at 12:08 PM, americo silva via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > I am no expert but laying up say a half inch piece of fiberglass the
> same
> > > size as the bulkhead would prevent future rot or is G10 strong enough?
> > >
> > > On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 11:32 AM Jonathan via Public-List <
> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hi John,
> > >>             I had to deal with this same problem two years ago. 3 of
> the
> > >> chain plate bulkheads were compromised. There is a product out there
> > that
> > >> is a fiberglass vinyl sheet, 3/4 or 1/2 inch thick. Cuts like wood. I
> > cut
> > >> out the damaged area after removing the tang . There is a fiberglass
> > pocket
> > >> around both sides of the bulkhead which I left in place but cleaned it
> > >> right out. The new replacement piece was cut to fit the old damaged
> area
> > >> and fit right into that pocket. Then I fiber glassed the whole thing
> > with
> > >> matting across the wood to new product and painted after fairing. It
> is
> > a
> > >> chore to do but it worked. I then made 1/4 inch thick plastic vinyl
> > squares
> > >> with a very tight slot for the tangs and stuffed mastic under it
> before
> > >> sliding the plate over the tang and screwing it to the deck. Seems to
> > have
> > >> solved the Alberg albatross(!) permanently. Hope this helps. Jonathan
> > >> Whittingham. Emmy#25
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPad
> > >>
> > >>> On Oct 21, 2018, at 6:15 PM, John Irving via Public-List <
> > >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> I’ve apparently had a deck leak at the port upper stay chainplate
> for a
> > >> while.  The bulkhead forward of the head has rotted next to the hull.
> > The
> > >> chainplate support is compromised.  Replacing the entire bulkhead
> looks
> > >> like a major project.  Has anyone experience with this problem?
> > >>>
> > >>> John Irving
> > >>> Scotch Bonnet
> > >>>
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>
> --
> Jonathan M Bresler
> S/V Constance Alberg 30 #262
> Annapolis/Eastport MD
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