[Public-List] stern tube question

Clay Pass clay.q.pass at gmail.com
Mon Feb 4 17:52:17 PST 2019


I imagine during manufacture they put the engine with shaft installed such
that the shaft exited through the big hole in the fiberglass, roughly in
the center of the hole, then assembled the stern tube to cutlass bearing
housing, then slid that over the shaft in a dry fit, then marked where the
housing mounting holes were to be drilled and then removed and
drilled/tapped the threads into the fiberglass.  Then when it was
reassembled it was in perfect alignment with the mounting holes.  The
housing with stern tube attached would be reinstalled with caulk on the
flange and mounting surface making it water tight, then it was further
sealed from the inside just for extra measure and to hold the stern tube in
place in the event that the cutlass housing should ever need to be
removed.  Then the stuffing box hardware, previously placed on the shaft,
ready and waiting, would provide the final seal to the stern tube.

Now that we have mounting holes already in place, our problem becomes
aligning the shaft to the existing cutlass bearing housing mounting holes
so that no pressure is applied to the bearing.  I think the principle is
still the same though.  Just do the alignment such that when the cutlass
bearing is reinstalled on the now already in place stern tube that it
screws on and aligns with the existing bolt holes without exerting any
pressure to the shaft.

On Mon, Feb 4, 2019 at 4:56 PM Michael Connolly via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> David and George,
> I stand corrected. I was missing something. So from your good advice and
> photo references. I must assume that during fabrication Whitby assembled
> all together, bolted the cutless bearing housing onto the aft end of keel
> and then crammed in the Dolfinite around the stern tube.
> Does that make sense? Otherwise how would all this easily line-up with the
> stern tube fixed into the hull ahead of time?
>
> So with an older boat with a dislodged stern tube it would be best to
> start the process all over again. That is, remove the stern tube
> completely, scrape out all the accupucky, then assemble all the new
> components together with the stern tube slipped over the shaft. Align the
> engine to the cutlass bearing and then refasten the stern tube in place
> with new flexible sealant.
> Michael
>
> > On February 4, 2019 at 3:57 PM David Fay <davidfay999 at gmail.com mailto:
> davidfay999 at gmail.com > wrote:
> >
> >
> >     [After writing the note below I saw that George had already replied
> to Michael and provided much the same information. I'm sending this anyway
> in case anyone finds it useful.]
> >
> >     Hi Michael,
> >
> >     Your understanding is not quite correct. The prop shaft needs to be
> concentric with the stern tube because the cutless bearing and its housing
> must be concentric with the stern tube (because the housing screws onto the
> stern tube). If the prop shaft is not concentric with the stern tube before
> the cutless bearing and housing are screwed on, then the prop shaft will
> apply sideways pressure to the cutless bearing wearing it out.
> >
> >     It's also somewhat misleading to say the stern tube provides "a
> water tight passage for the prop shaft". Once the boat is in the water, the
> stern tube is filled with water. The water enters through two holes in the
> cutless bearing housing, passes through holes drilled through the sides of
> the cutless bearing by the installer (this step is skipped by some
> installers), and then travels aft to fill the cutless bearing and cool it
> down as well as forward to the stuffing box and its packing to keep them
> cool.
> >
> >     Even if the holes are not drilled into the cutless bearing, some sea
> water will enter the cutless bearing from the aft end because the rubber
> lining that holds the prop shaft in place is grooved allowing a small
> amount of water to travel through the bearing, into the stern tube, and on
> to the stuffing box.
> >
> >     A diagram or photos would be helpful here.
> >
> >     David
> >
> >         > > On Feb 4, 2019, at 10:38 AM, Michael Connolly via
> Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > >
> > >         Hello all,
> > >         It is my understanding that the stern tube was secured into
> the boat to provide a water tight passage for the prop shaft. There are no
> bearings in the stern tube on our boats. There needs to be enough clearance
> so the shaft does not rub against the tube, wearing a hole in it to cause a
> leak for sea water into the boat. No need for the tube to be absolutely
> concentric with the shaft as long as there is clearance for the length of
> the shaft inside the tube.
> > >         Michael
> > >
> > >             > > > On February 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM Clay Pass via
> Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >             I think that test assumes that there is not any play in
> the rubber cutlass
> > > >             bearing that might allow the shaft to hang low as it is
> resting on the
> > > >             bearing or it is pushed over to one side or the other
> because of wear in
> > > >             the bearing. I think that if you removed the cutlass
> bearing and housing
> > > >             you should have been able to visibly see shaft move off
> center in the stern
> > > >             tube as it was rotated.
> > > >
> > > >             On Fri, Feb 1, 2019 at 10:11 PM Kris Coward via
> Public-List <
> > > >             public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >             > > > >> As a note, my wobble wasn't visible. That
> said, it was detectable prior
> > > >
> > > >                 > > > > to removal by uncoupling the shaft from the
> engine to test the
> > > > >                 alignment, rotating the shaft by one coupling
> bolt, testing the
> > > > >                 alignment again, and seeing that it was different.
> Once out, it was
> > > > >                 confirmed by rolling the shaft down a reference
> flat surface (one of the
> > > > >                 granite slabs at a machine shop, which are used
> specifically to make
> > > > >                 sure that things are really flat, though I've
> heard that granite
> > > > >                 countertops and mirrors also work).
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > -K
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > On Fri, Feb 01, 2019 at 10:01:12AM
> -0500, David Fay via Public-List wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > > >>> Don,
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > >>
> > > > > >                     >> Thank you so much for your comments. It's
> not what I wanted to hear but
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                     >> you've opened my mind to new
> possibilities.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > > >>> My initial thought was that there
> couldn't have been much force applied
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > >> to the shaft because the wrap
> didn't stop the engine. Plus I have that
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > > flexible coupling, which is supposed to
> avoid damage in just this kind of
> > > > >                 situation -- the weak link as you call it. But
> we'll see. The next step
> > > > >                 will be to see if the shaft wobbles when I rotate
> it.
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > > >>> David
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > Blue Teal #284
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                     >>
> > > > > >                     >>
> > > > > >                     >>>> On Feb 1, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Don
> Campbell via Public-List <
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                         > > > > > > >>>
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >                             > > > > > > >
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >                         > > > > > >
> > > > > > >                     > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > > >>>
> > > > >                 >>>>>
> > > > >                 >>>>>
> > > > >                 >>>>> David:
> > > > >                 >> You have probably bent the drive shaft with the
> dockline as I
> > > > >                 >>
> > > > >                 >>>>>
> > > > >                 >>> suspect that is the weakest part of your
> drivetrain.. If you recall, Kris
> > > > >                 Coward said he had a bent driveshaft and I have
> had one as well. The bend
> > > > >                 in my shaft was about 0.005" and was small enough
> that the machine shop I
> > > > >                 took things to managed to work that back to
> straight with a lathe and some
> > > > >                 sideways pressure. Stainless is very malleable,
> and bends easily. I am
> > > > >                 surprised though that you only have a 7/8" shaft
> for a diesel. They are
> > > > >                 usually a full 1" because of the extra torque
> developed by diesels. It the
> > > > >                 shaft did not bend, then the coupler probably gave
> because of that torque
> > > > >                 or, if that did not fail, a motor mount has bent.
> You should have that
> > > > >                 diesel on flex mounts. Whatever has been the
> resistance with the dockline,
> > > > >                 it will have been the torque developed by your
> motor that will have caused
> > > > >                 the weakest link to fail.
> > > > >
> > > > >                 >>>
> > > > >                 >>>>> Don
> > > > >                 >>
> > > > >                 >>>>>
> > > > >                 >>> ---Original Message----- From: David Fay via
> Public-List
> > > > >                 Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2019 9:21 PM
> > > > >                 To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > > >                 Cc: David Fay
> > > > >                 Subject: Re: [Public-List] stern tube question
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > Michael,
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > That's possible of course, but this
> is not some ancient clunker of an
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >             > > > engine but rather a new Beta Marine diesel
> installed just five years ago by
> > > >
> > > >         > > a highly competent boat restorer (Tim Lackey). I would
> be very surprised if
> > >         a rope wrap could twist the engine around on its engine
> mounts. But it's
> > >         certainly something I will have to look into.
> > >
> > >             > > > >>
> > > >             >>
> > > >             >> David
> > > >
> > > >                 > > > > Blue Teal #284
> > > > >
> > > > >                 >>
> > > > >
> > > > >                     > > > > > On Jan 31, 2019, at 8:30 PM, Michael
> Grosh via Public-List <
> > > > > >
> > > > > >                 > > > >
> > > > >             > > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >         > >
> > >             > > > >>
> > > >             >>>>
> > > >             >>>>
> > > >             >>>> It sounds like the line wrap may have pulled the
> engine out of
> > > >
> > > >             alignment.
> > > >
> > > >         > >
> > >             > > > >>
> > > >             >>
> > > >             >> _______________________________________________
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> > > >         > > Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
> > >         GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733 830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB
> 12B3
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