[Public-List] More on the rudder discussion

[Gordon Laco]

Yes, I used a light ball peen hammer…

Gord
#426 Surprise




> On Jan 16, 2019, at 3:33 PM, Rod Symmes via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Gord:
> The only addition to your excellent description that I would make is to use the ball end of a ball/peen hammer to round over the rivet.  It improves the mushrooming effect.
> Granted, all my experience is with iron rivets.  Would this also be true with copper , Gord ?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,  Rod
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Gordon Laco via Public-List
> Date:16-01-2019 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Cc: Gordon Laco
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder discussion
> 
> Hello Jonathan - I’ve done a fair bit of riveting in boatbuilding contexts.
> 
> Riveting is a very secure mode of fastening… it’s easy to remove a rivet by either grinding or drilling off the burr on one side, then driving the rivet out with a pin and hammer.
> 
> Replacing the fitting by riveting involves use of a soft metal compatible with the fitting being secured… Cut a pin such that when run through the hole in the structure and fitting, about 3/16” protrudes on each side.  The fit in the hole needs to be tight.   Place a heavy mass (called ’the dolly’) on one end of the pin, and strike the other protruding end of the pin with a light hammer.  I’ve found that repeated lighter blows with a lighter hammer works better than fewer harder hits with a heavy hammer.   I’ve successfully used a hammer heavier than the one I’m hitting with as a good dolly.  Be very sure that before each hit with the hammer, the dolly is in contact with the rod/rivet.  What you don’t want is for the rod to get knocked through so you lose the protruding end which you are trying to spread.
> 
> Why does the rod only spread at the protruding end?  Because you ensured a tight fit in the hole, there is nowhere else it can spread in response to the blows.
> 
> Take care that the pin is remaining ‘centred’ with protrusions as equal as possible from either side… switch the side you’re hitting and the side with the dolly often.  You’ll develop a spread on each end of the pin which you can encourage and develop as the hitting progresses.   At some point the pin will become secure, and when that happens, you can really start riveting.   What happens as the spread on the end is developing, is that metal is ‘flowing’ out of the shaft area of the pin into the spread… this forces the grip of the rivet to become very tight.  Magic.
> 
> 
> Gordon Laco
> #426 Surprise
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:48 AM, jreadams6 via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> 
>> All here are some pics of Laughing Gull's rudder  and comments. anyone have
>> any knowledge of the rivetted type fastenings?
>> 
>> https://alberg30maintenance.wordpress.com/2019/01/16/rudder-work/
>> 
>> Jonathan
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan Adams
>> 443-223-2534
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