[Public-List] More on the rudder discussion
Mike Lehman
mlehman at gmail.com
Fri Jan 18 07:13:35 PST 2019
Jason, If you are saying you need a new rudder shoe, we have a source for
them.
On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 9:36 AM Jason S via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> Does anyone need for a brand new rudder shoe?
>
> On Thu, Jan 17, 2019, 9:27 AM Michael Connolly via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:
>
> > Perfect! Could not resist. See how much fun we can have with the snow
> > still on the ground
> >
> >
> > > On January 16, 2019 at 8:56 PM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Scoundrel!
> > >
> > > Gord
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > > On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Michael Connolly via
> > Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Normaly rivets are set with a small air hammer set to a
> > specified pressure. The business end of the air tool can have several
> > different shaped "anvils' to conform to the factory head shape of the
> > rivet. The "dolly" or "bucking bar" can also have different shapes to
> allow
> > the formed head to take various shapes. This is for most riveting
> > jobs......................................of course then there is Gord
> who
> > enjoys the feel and satisfaction of a hand job. Oh gosh did I say the
> wrong
> > thing?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > > > On January 16, 2019 at 3:33 PM Rod Symmes via
> > Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Gord:
> > > > > The only addition to your excellent description that
> > I would make is to use the ball end of a ball/peen hammer to round over
> the
> > rivet. It improves the mushrooming effect.
> > > > > Granted, all my experience is with iron rivets.
> Would
> > this also be true with copper , Gord ?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers, Rod
> > > > >
> > > > > -------- Original message --------
> > > > > From: Gordon Laco via Public-List
> > > > > Date:16-01-2019 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > > > > To: jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> > jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com
> > , Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > > > Cc: Gordon Laco
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder
> > discussion
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Jonathan - I’ve done a fair bit of riveting in
> > boatbuilding contexts.
> > > > >
> > > > > Riveting is a very secure mode of fastening… it’s
> > easy to remove a rivet by either grinding or drilling off the burr on one
> > side, then driving the rivet out with a pin and hammer.
> > > > >
> > > > > Replacing the fitting by riveting involves use of a
> > soft metal compatible with the fitting being secured… Cut a pin such that
> > when run through the hole in the structure and fitting, about 3/16”
> > protrudes on each side. The fit in the hole needs to be tight. Place a
> > heavy mass (called ’the dolly’) on one end of the pin, and strike the
> other
> > protruding end of the pin with a light hammer. I’ve found that repeated
> > lighter blows with a lighter hammer works better than fewer harder hits
> > with a heavy hammer. I’ve successfully used a hammer heavier than the one
> > I’m hitting with as a good dolly. Be very sure that before each hit with
> > the hammer, the dolly is in contact with the rod/rivet. What you don’t
> want
> > is for the rod to get knocked through so you lose the protruding end
> which
> > you are trying to spread.
> > > > >
> > > > > Why does the rod only spread at the protruding end?
> > Because you ensured a tight fit in the hole, there is nowhere else it can
> > spread in response to the blows.
> > > > >
> > > > > Take care that the pin is remaining ‘centred’ with
> > protrusions as equal as possible from either side… switch the side you’re
> > hitting and the side with the dolly often. You’ll develop a spread on
> each
> > end of the pin which you can encourage and develop as the hitting
> > progresses. At some point the pin will become secure, and when that
> > happens, you can really start riveting. What happens as the spread on the
> > end is developing, is that metal is ‘flowing’ out of the shaft area of
> the
> > pin into the spread… this forces the grip of the rivet to become very
> > tight. Magic.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Gordon Laco
> > > > > #426 Surprise
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:48 AM,
> > jreadams6 via Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> > wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All here are
> > some pics of Laughing Gull's rudder and comments. anyone have
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > any knowledge of the rivetted
> > type fastenings?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > https://alberg30maintenance.wordpress.com/2019/01/16/rudder-work/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Jonathan
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jonathan Adams
> > > > >
> > > > > > > 443-223-2534
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--
Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
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