[Public-List] Cleaning and filling old deck hardware holes

[John Birch]

We replaced our traveller, the old SS flat track by buying a used Harken Traveller bearing car with double blocks ($45 USD) and double end blocks with cams ($45USD for the pair) at Bacon's in Annapolis.
When I got back to Canada I went to Harken Canada and bought new Harken ball bearings and a new Harken 'blind traveller track' which allowed me to use the same bolt patter as on the old flat SS track. No holes to fill. 

Then fabricated a nice teak traveller base to camber to the deck on the bottom and be flat on top. In an ideal world, it would be inverted on top too, but inverted top camber looks awful and is a trip hazard going aft to BBQ. Plus the length is so short it's not worth the effort. Then backed the 316 SS Bolts holding the traveller with oversized 316 SS washers from Pacific Fasteners on Chauncey Drive off Kipling in Toronto.

While it is on our Alberg 37, the principle is the same and I saved a fortune this way as opposed to buying all new. Works a treat in any weather and wind.

Hope the info is a help.

Fair winds and following seas.

JB



-----Original Message-----
From: Public-List [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Gordon Laco via Public-List
Sent: March 13, 2019 9:44 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Cc: Gordon Laco
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cleaning and filling old deck hardware holes

Hello Mike - 

The filling of the old holes is mostly just to keep water out; you don’t really have to worry about loss of strength.

A good way to do the job is to put masking tape on the inside to keep the thickened epoxy from running through.  It may not be easy to get a good seal because the under surface of glass is likely very rough.  Our boats were well built but not finely built.

Any filler that thickens the epoxy will do well… for jobs like this I prefer to use West’s filleting compound because it sands so easily.  

A good procedure would be to run a drill through the old holes to clean out any old bedding… then wet the raw edges of the holes with a Q Tip and regular epoxy after you’ve put the tape on the underside.  (yes, some may run through so you may want to lay some newspaper in the locker.) This will improve adhesion of the thickened stuff.  Then thicken your epoxy to about the stiffness of peanut butter and lay it in.    Sand it smooth after its cured, and paint it if you like.

What did I do?  Well I had a race to catch the day I decided to install the traveller… so I just filled the old holes with white Sika Flex, the same stuff I used to bed the new traveller’s bolts.  That was fifteen years and much hard sailing ago.  There have been no leaks, and the traveller is solid.

Gordon Laco
#426 Surprise




> On Mar 13, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Michael Nikolich via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Fellow Albergers,  
> 
> I am replacing my traveller.  When the old traveller track was installed silicone was used as the bedding compound.  I believe the bolt hole locations for the new track is going to be just a little bit different than for the old track, so I need to fill the holes to get back to full strength before I drill for the new beam.
> 
> What is the best product/method to clean out the old holes to get a good bond between the filler and the surrounding fiberglass?
> What would be the best filler product? West GFLEX? Something else? Is an additive needed? (I wouldn't think so for just 1/4" dia. holes)
> Is there any particular tape that works well to cover the bottom of the holes so the filler won't drip out before curing, but still comes off easily once the epoxy cures?
> 
> Thanks!
> Mike
> 
> 
> Mike Nikolich
> s/v SKYBIRD
> Alberg 30 #550
> mike.nikolich550 at gmail.com
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