[Public-List] Fwd: Re: Gooseneck track repair and replacement

Michael Connolly crufone at comcast.net
Thu Jul 30 16:36:42 PDT 2020 

Gord,
Very cool and cheap solution.  I remember when new cars were delivered by ships across the Atlantic the bumpers had a product called "Cosmoline"smeared over them to protect from rust. Actually Webster's defines Cosmoline as a Trademark for a heavy grade petrolatum, which is further defined as a greasy, jellylike substance consisting of a mixture of semisolid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum, presto! Petroleum jelly = Vaseline.

OK Gord, did you ever try Vaseline on your steering gear?  Teflon as a bearing surface?  You don't mean the tape do you?
Michael
> On 07/30/2020 9:55 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>  
> We isolate fasteners by means of delrin bushings everywhere possible, but use the waxy grease from the rings where we tap threads into our aluminium castings and aluminium tubes.   We use teflon to line bearing surfaces where things move under high loads… we find that better than ball bearings because the later tend to clog up with dust and salt
> 
> 
> Gordon Laco
> www.gordonlaco.com
> 426 Surprise
> 
> 
> 
> > On Jul 30, 2020, at 9:48 AM, R Kirk <isobar at verizon.net> wrote:
> > 
> > Those toilet things are called "wax rings" and are universally available. Too bad I have no idea what kind of wax they are, or indeed, if different maker use different kind of wax: beeswax, paraffin, lanolin, whale wax, shoe wax, etc. Or if the kind really makes a difference or not. Sounds good to me. I also wonder if teflon tape on the threads help anticorrosiveness?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Cc: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > Sent: Thu, Jul 30, 2020 8:54 am
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Fwd: Re: Gooseneck track repair and replacement
> > 
> > Hello gang, 
> > 
> > For our Voyager Self Steering Vanes, we use a waxy grease to isolate stainless steel fasteners where they thread into aluminium.  We’ve tried a variety of compounds specifically made for the purpose, including one a customer embezzled a can of from his naval vessel… but the best has proven to be the stuff those waxy-grease donuts one uses to seal a toilet installation.  We wipe the fastener in the stuff before driving it in.  That has proven the most effective and longest lasting.
> > 
> > Strange, but true…
> > 
> > Gordon Laco
> > www.gordonlaco.com
> > 426 Surprise
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > On Jul 30, 2020, at 8:50 AM, Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > >> ---------- Original Message ----------
> > >> From: Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net <mailto:crufone at comcast.net>>
> > >> To: James Cowhey <james.cowhey at gmail.com <mailto:james.cowhey at gmail.com>>
> > >> Date: 07/30/2020 8:48 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Gooseneck track repair and replacement
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> James,
> > >> Two folks have mentioned anti corrosion products. Lanolin and tufgel. Your fastners will not be Aluminum.  I would coat them as best possible. If you look around any boats which have SS to Aluminum junctures will have white corrosion products from the Aluminum deterioration. The best you can do is attempt to use anti corrosion barriers. How long they last depends on where they are located and how often they are renewed. I have used Lanolin on Turnbuckles with great success. Tufgel I have not used but it is a product specifically made to prevent (reduce) dissimilar metal corrosion.  To answer your question I would say Yes.  Some folks have mentioned sealant when maybe they meant anti corrosive barriers. A sealant like bedding compound I don't believe would be as effective as for instance Tufgel. Tufgel remains gooey and active whereas bedding compound when the adhesion breaks over time will loose it's effectiveness.
> > >> 
> > >> Others with more experience should jump in here.
> > >> 
> > >> Michael #133
> > >>> On 07/29/2020 6:04 PM James Cowhey <james.cowhey at gmail.com <mailto:james.cowhey at gmail.com>> wrote:
> > >>> 
> > >>> 
> > >>> I do have a vang. 
> > >>> 
> > >>> I have a question about isolating different metals.  I understand the need to coat, for example, a SS screw fastened through aluminum.  But, if you are fastening flat pieces of different metals against each other do you need to isolated them along the flat length that are in contact?  For example, a SS strap bolted to a flat face of aluminum.
> > >>> 
> > >>> As it is, I believe I found aluminum T-track at Rigrite.com that will work for this application so that galvanic action shouldn’t be an issue.
> > >>> 
> > >>> James Cowhey
> > >>> 
> > >>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>> 
> > >>>> On Jul 29, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net <mailto:crufone at comcast.net>> wrote:
> > >>>> 
> > >>>> James,
> > >>>> If the backside of your mast has any curve to it make certain that the track matches that curve. Also I concure with Don the sealant isn't of much value. What is would be an isolation compound that you apply to the SS machine screws as you drive them into the aluminum mast. What little remains on the threads will help slow up the galvanic corrosion between the SS and Aluminum.  This corrosion can be fierce especially in salt water conditions.  Thru bolt with a backing plate the next time your mast is down.
> > >>>> Best of luck.  BTW Do you have a vang fitted?
> > >>>> Michael #133
> > >>>>> On 07/28/2020 10:34 PM James Cowhey via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> I found several suppliers some that sell T track In 2 ‘ sections which is about right.  The aft face of the mast is flat so a T track should be fairly straight forward to install.  It’s made with countersunk holes so I ‘m thinking I’ll tap the holes and back the track with sealant  before installing the screws.  Sound right?
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> James Cowhey
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>>>> On Jul 28, 2020, at 9:12 PM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> Hello friends… 
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> T track is great if you can get an extrusion that fits…. back in the day making track out of flat plate with wooden spacer was normal and traditional.  It’s very strong and while perhaps cheaper with regard to materials, wasn’t with regard to labour because it had to be made up.  Use of it was a characteristic of a time when craftsmanship was normal.    
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> All that said (did you hear the violins rising to an emotional crescendo?) Whitby did take short cuts…
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> Gordon Laco
> > >>>>>> www.gordonlaco.com
> > >>>>>> 426 Surprise
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>> On Jul 28, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > >>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>> James,
> > >>>>>>> I believe that you have found the answer to your original question. If your bar stock is so damaged as to not be useable then the purchase of a standard "T" track is probably the way to go. Look for track which has a convex lower surface.  Not all "T" track has this feature. For others if the bar is OK but the spacer has deteriorated then just replacing the spacer is preferred. I believe that a continuous spacer is the way to go.  It would help keep the track from distorting under load. You have an early boat and I suspect that originally it had wood spacers under the track bars for the sliding gooseneck fitting as well as all the jib and genoa tracks. My boat has an aluminum casting for the gooseneck with the gearbox for the roller reefing arangement. 
> > >>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>> James, you will discover over time that Whitby as a production boat builder was conscious of costs and did a number of "interesting" things to save on expenses.  Also, as a one-design there are many differences between the A30 boats that do not affect the one-design aspect of the boat. I am not sure but suspect that suitable aluminum "T" track was commercially available in 1966 when my boat was put together, but Whitby might have used the SS bar and wood spacer as a cost saving measure over the aluminum "T" extrusion?  Although I don't see the savings there!  Gord would be better to answer that historical rigging question.
> > >>>>>>> Michael #133 
> > >>>>>>>>> On 07/28/2020 10:18 AM James Cowhey via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>> I like the simplicity of the T-track like Stephen Gwyn  mentioned. The internal backing plate makes sense but that might be for another day.  Now that I know what I’m looking for I see several sources online.
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>> Thanks.
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>> James Cowhey
> > >>>>>>>> Alberg 30 #56
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 5:57 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
> > >>>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>>> On my boat the gooseneck track is a standard aluminum 1-inch T track,
> > >>>>>>>>> screwed to the mast with 1/4" SS machine screws, mostly
> > >>>>>>>>> countersunk into the tracks holes, except for the top and bottom holes.
> > >>>>>>>>> After 40 years, the top bolt was slightly wiggly, so I re-drilled
> > >>>>>>>>> and tapped to 5/16". 10 years after that, the track itself was
> > >>>>>>>>> slightly worn, and since the mast was down anyway (and unlikely
> > >>>>>>>>> to be ever down again), the track was replaced, this time backed
> > >>>>>>>>> with another aluminum track inside the mast.
> > >>>>>>>>> 
> > >>>>>>>>> SG
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