[Public-List] Stern tube

[Andrew Johns]

Kris,
When I re-beded the stern tube I didn't touch the engine since I have a
cockpit sole hatch.  Didn't have to realign either in my case.  ( I have a
flex coupling that allow some misalignment.)

This started as a cutlass bearing replacement and PSS shaft seal
installation.

1) With boat hauled out, removed prop, shaft and prop shaft from the
coupling. Which allowed me to pull the shaft out of the boat from the
outside.

2) Removed the shaft seal from the stern tube via the hatch.

3) Removed the bolts holding the bearing housing  to the deadwood.  Tool a
pipe wrench and attempted to unscrew the bearing housing from the
stern tube.  Unfortunately the bedding material crumbled and the bearing
housing and stern tube came out as one piece.

4) Removed the old sealant, using scrapers and a brush hone, cleaned with
acetone.

5) Installed the new cutlass bearing into the housing, which I had to
machine down to fit.

6) Reinstalled the bearing housing and stern tube and bedded it with 5200.
Filling the area between the hull and sterntube with 5200.

7) Restalled shaft, prop, seal. ect.

8) Checked alignment, with in specs and made no adjustment in my case.  If
you do, either shim or adjust the jacking screws / mounts, no need to pull
the engine entirely out!

-Andrew





On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:30 AM Kris Coward via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

>
> What do you mean "without removing the engine"? If the job's done by
> hauling, the bearing housing's going to come off and go back on again,
> so the engine's going to need to be realigned anyway.
>
> Of course hauling the boat provides more opportunity to clean the
> bottom, touch up the bottom paint, etc. than pulling the engine (and the
> stern tube rebedding/resealing is easier on the hard) -- but you don't
> need as big a crane to pull the engine :)
>
> (I write this all as I'm years overdue to haul and repaint the bottom,
> but don't know how much it's worth looking for a yard that isn't booked
> solid with slower, socially-distanced launches now that we're allowed to
> launch boats in Ontario again. Of course, if I hadn't repowered to
> electric, there'd be plenty of available cranes to pull the engine with
> -- but as things stand I can just lift the motor out with my bare
> hands.)
>
> -Kris
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 07:31:55AM -0400, Andrew Johns via Public-List
> wrote:
> > I think you will have to haul out to fix this one...
> >
> > If you have a cockpit floor access hatch or (add one) It is possible to
> > re-bed the stern tube without removing the engine, but it does involve a
> > bit of boat yoga.
> >
> > When I removed the bearing housing the 54 year old sealant crubles when i
> > removed it and the stern tube came with it.    I removed the propshaft
> and
> > rebedded with 5200.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 2:11 AM Kris Coward via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > If you recently reinstalled the housing with fresh sealant on clean
> > > surfaces, it might be worth considering whether the leak is in the
> joint
> > > between the cutless bearing housing and the stern tube. It _might_ even
> > > be possible to tighten up this joint (or pop out and (re)tape the
> > > threads on the tube) without having to haul.
> > >
> > > -K
> > >
> > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 07:09:22PM +0000, Gerard Kuperus via
> Public-List
> > > wrote:
> > > > Thanks again David, and George,
> > > >
> > > > It seems more and more like a haul-out is required. I cannot imagine
> > > that I did not apply enough sealant when I reinstalled the housing,
> but in
> > > this case I do hope I messed up, because replacing the stern tube
> would be
> > > a major undertaking, and which I think can only be done by moving the
> > > engine.
> > > >
> > > > I will keep you posted!
> > > >
> > > > G
> > > >
> > > >
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> > > --
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> --
> Kris Coward                                     http://unripe.melon.org/
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