[Public-List] corroded rudder
Gordon Laco
mainstay at csolve.net
Sat Mar 13 15:40:49 PST 2021
Hi Mike - it’s there (somehow) a scan down at the end if you scroll down.
Gordon Laco
www.gordonlaco.com
> On Mar 13, 2021, at 1:13 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> Towney...no photo attached
>
> Mike Lehman
> ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 13, 2021, 1:13 PM Rolph Townshend via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>> See the photo below re the rudder repair
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 12:19 PM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>>> yes, I’m learning a lot
>>>
>>> Gordon Laco
>>> www.gordonlaco.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Mar 13, 2021, at 10:57 AM, John Birch via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> This is a very interesting discussion. Those photos, experiences, and
>>> tables in the link are terrific.
>>>>
>>>> - JB
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Public-List [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On
>>> Behalf Of George Dinwiddie via Public-List
>>>> Sent: March 12, 2021 11:07 PM
>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> Cc: George Dinwiddie
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] corroded rudder
>>>>
>>>> There are probably some differences between a 1967 rudder and a 1972
>>>> rudder. See
>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/ and
>>>>
>>>
>> http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/Checkmate220Rudder/
>>>>
>>>> - George
>>>>
>>>> On 3/12/21 8:39 PM, David Scherrer via Public-List wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I rebuilt my 1967 boats rudder just about a month ago. Not too
>>> difficult but does involve a little bit of lifting and impact hammer
>> work….
>>>>>
>>>>> You will not have to drop the rudder/shaft from the boat in order to
>>> remove the rudder itself. This a very unique design that Alberg came up
>>> with.
>>>>> The shaft coming down from the tiller is solid bronze bent around the
>>> top leading edge and only extends down about 2 ft of the rudder, attached
>>> by a series of five counter sunk, large bronze threaded bolts.
>>>>> Angle/turn the rudder as far as you can and brace to get to the bolts,
>>> then use intact hammer to loosen the slotted bolts. Probably have to
>> remove
>>> a fair amount of paint and glass filler. You will have to replace the
>> bolts
>>> as they are slotted and its very hard to avoid damaging the heads.
>>>>>
>>>>> The pin joint half way down is just like a hinge on a door in many
>>> ways. The pin was worn on mine so I replaced with a shortened carriage
>>> bronze bolt (cut off the threads). Also ground down the squared section
>> at
>>> the top of carriage bolt below cap to make round, easy to do..
>>>>> You will have to remove the unit in order to get to the pin, Do this
>>> same time as removing the upper bolts from rudder..
>>>>>
>>>>> The bottom shoe does have a pin in the base that can be easily replace
>>> once you lift the rudder off. I do recommend replacing the large bolt in
>>> the bottom shoe that is screwed into the keel as well.
>>>>>
>>>>> Use epoxy with silicon micro ballons with all your replacement bolts
>>> both for the five above and one in the shoe.This will greatly improve the
>>> threads grip.
>>>>> The nuts and bolts in the hinge were in fine shape on my boat so I
>> used
>>> them again.
>>>>>
>>>>> I do recommend investing in a impact hammer..it will make a world of
>>> difference. Also a decent ratchet set.
>>>>>
>>>>> The rudder on my boat was a solid fiberglass material, kinda like
>>> Bondo. The bronze bolts were simply threaded into this material..made me
>>> little nervous, thus the adding of micro balloons.
>>>>>
>>>>> This is a fairly robust rudder system. It would take a lot for a
>>> complete failure in my opinion. But some rudders were made from solid
>> wood,
>>> other a mix and others all glass and resin.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm in the North West if thats helpful.
>>>>>
>>>>> Feel free to ask any questions…I would like to be helpful if I can.
>>>>>
>>>>> David S.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mar 12, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There's a lot of slop in the middle fitting.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Underway, it's more of a clunk when I tack and the load shifts
>>>>>> to the other side. When this happened 15 years ago, it was fixed by
>>>>>> putting a bushing in the shoe.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The yard is also not convinced there isn't more corrosion a long the
>>> shaft.
>>>>>> They reluctantly recommending rebuilding the rudder.
>>>>>> Reluctantly, because they're extremely busy right now and don't need
>>> extra work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> While a lot of the sailing I do is in light wind, I do seem to end up
>>>>>> pounding through 4 foot waves a few times a year. I've never fussed
>>>>>> about the boat breaking. Knowing I've lost that much metal a
>>>>>> key spot will not make me calm.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> SG
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
>>>> I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>>>> So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
>>>> So many I love were not yet born. also see:
>>>> 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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