[Public-List] corroded rudder

[George Dinwiddie]

There are probably some differences between a 1967 rudder and a 1972 
rudder. See 
http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/ and 
http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/Checkmate220Rudder/

  - George

On 3/12/21 8:39 PM, David Scherrer via Public-List wrote:
> 
> 
> I rebuilt my 1967 boats rudder just about a month ago. Not too difficult but does involve a little bit of lifting and impact hammer work….
> 
> You will not have to drop the rudder/shaft from the boat in order to remove the rudder itself. This a very unique design that Alberg came up with.
> The shaft coming down from the tiller is solid bronze bent around the top leading edge and only extends down about 2 ft of the rudder, attached by a series of five counter sunk, large bronze threaded bolts.
> Angle/turn the rudder as far as you can and brace to get to the bolts, then use intact hammer to loosen the slotted bolts. Probably have to remove a fair amount of paint and glass filler. You will have to replace the bolts as they are slotted and its very hard to avoid damaging the heads.
> 
> The pin joint half way down is just like a hinge on a door in many ways. The pin was worn on mine so I replaced with a shortened carriage bronze bolt (cut off the threads). Also ground down the squared section at the top of carriage bolt below cap to make round, easy to do..
> You will have to remove the unit in order to get to the pin, Do this same time as removing the upper bolts from rudder..
> 
> The bottom shoe does have a pin in the base that can be easily replace once you lift the rudder off. I do recommend replacing the large bolt in the bottom shoe that is screwed into the keel as well.
> 
> Use epoxy with silicon micro ballons with all your replacement bolts both for the five above and one in the shoe.This will greatly improve the threads grip.
> The nuts and bolts in the hinge were in fine shape on my boat so I used them again.
> 
> I do recommend investing in a impact hammer..it will make a world of difference. Also a decent ratchet set.
> 
> The rudder on my boat was a solid fiberglass material, kinda like Bondo. The bronze bolts were simply threaded into this material..made me little nervous, thus the adding of micro balloons.
> 
> This is a fairly robust rudder system. It would take a lot for a complete failure in my opinion. But some rudders were made from solid wood, other a mix and others all glass and resin.
> 
> I'm in the North West if thats helpful.
> 
> Feel free to ask any questions…I would like to be helpful if I can.
> 
> David S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 12, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>> There's a lot of slop in the middle fitting.
>>
>> Underway, it's more of a clunk when I tack and the load shifts
>> to the other side. When this happened 15 years ago, it was fixed by
>> putting a bushing in the shoe.
>>
>> The yard is also not convinced there isn't more corrosion a long the shaft.
>> They reluctantly recommending rebuilding the rudder.
>> Reluctantly, because they're extremely busy right now and don't need extra work.
>>
>> While a lot of the sailing I do is in light wind, I do seem to end up
>> pounding through 4 foot waves a few times a year. I've never fussed
>> about the boat breaking. Knowing I've lost that much metal a
>> key spot will not make me calm.
>>
>> SG
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-- 
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   When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
   So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
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