[Public-List] What finish to use on teak cockpit seats

Michael Connolly crufone at comcast.net
Tue Feb 15 09:44:27 PST 2022


Thanks for the up-date, interesting. What about the thickness of the planks?
Michael

>     On 02/15/2022 12:36 PM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Back in the 1930’s and 1940’s teak was available in apparently unlimited quantities.   Warship decks had the teak bolted on plank by plank by means of threaded studs welded into the decks.  The heads of the studs with their nuts on them were covered by teak plugs.  The planks were usually raised slightly to allow drainage beneath them, sometimes bedded in tar.
> 
>     Most sailing ships with wooden decks over steel still use this method today, but fir is a more common wood being both cheaper and more available.  And, strangely enough, when allowed to bleach without coatings, about as long-lived in service provided cleaning is limited to brush work, not grinding.  (teak decks survive longer when unfinished as well… )
> 
> 
>     Cheers - 
> 
>     Gordon Laco
>     426 Surprise
> 
> 
> 
>         > >         On Feb 15, 2022, at 12:30 PM, Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> >         Mr. Kirk,
> >         Iowa Class Battleships, honestly!  Very cool.  When I was studying these ships I was shocked that there was enough teak left in the world to deck them in teak. Do you have some idea of how thick it was and how it was attached to the steel underneath? Mastic?
> >         Michael #133
> > 
> > 
> >             > > > On 02/15/2022 8:31 AM R Kirk <isobar at verizon.net mailto:isobar at verizon.net > wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > > I have known a number of people with teak decks and they either cleaned and left the teak raw(bright) or cleaned and used MoldArmour to keep them bright. I know you are not talking about decks here.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > > gg
> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > > 
> > > >             > > > Of course, the right way to clean teak decks to a lustrous finish is to use an endless supply of sailors rubbing sand & seawater across the deck, in unison & rhythm, with holystones. Repeat weekly until the teak is worn enough to replace. (USS Iowa 1956 experience)
> > > 
> > > 
> > >                -----Original Message-----
> > >                From: Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> > >                To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> > >                Cc: Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net mailto:crufone at comcast.net >; Greg Roberts <greg at midnight-oil.us mailto:greg at midnight-oil.us >
> > >                Sent: Mon, Feb 14, 2022 10:17 pm
> > >                Subject: Re: [Public-List] What finish to use on teak cockpit seats
> > > 
> > >                Greg,
> > >                I have known a number of people with teak decks and they either cleaned and left the teak raw(bright) or cleaned and used MoldArmour to keep them bright. I know you are not talking about decks here.  Steve has a point, Teak oil if used (sparingly) will saturate the teak and bring out the tone.  Too much teak oil and you end up with basically an oil finish which looses its non-skid effect. Oil finishes are much easier to care for than full blown bright varnish. Teak oil is an oil finish and will support mold growth, esp in the southern climes.  My experience is with sweet water boats.  Salt water southern climes are another story entirely.
> > > 
> > >                I would strongly caution you and head in a new direction only after you have throughly investigated what is best for the climate where you normally sail. Also remember KISS = Keep it simple stupid.  Whatever you add to your teak you are adding to its maintenance = less time enjoying sailing on the water.  Personally I liked the Herreshoff design with all the teak treated with Mould Armour.  This guy was from Chicago, IL and applied the Mould Armopur once a season ....like in May and I saw his boat in late August and it looked like he had just cleaned the bright (raw) Teak.  I questioned him extensively and he had been doing this process for the past ten years with very nice results and not much labor to boot.
> > > 
> > >                How often do you clean your teak?  My Dad had a CC Constellation with teak decks. He cleaned them two or three times a season.  He purchased the boat in 1967 and sold it in 1976 and the decks looked the same when he sold it as when he bought it. Again this was a Great Lakes boat. Greg what you have now.... raw Teak is the simplest for maintenance you can get.
> > > 
> > >                Good luck,
> > >                Let the group know what you try and what results you get.
> > >                Michael #133
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > On 02/14/2022 12:12 PM Greg Roberts via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >                 Hi Folks,
> > > >                 I have solid teak seats/lazarette hatches that I've left raw for
> > > >                 non-skid reasons. What, if any finish have folks used that doesn't
> > > >                 create a slick surface when wet? I'd like them to look better but
> > > >                 safety first...
> > > >                 Regards,
> > > >                 Greg
> > > >                 Ayla
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