[Public-List] What finish to use on teak cockpit seats

Tue Feb 15 16:06:04 PST 2022

long ago I worked with an old hand Navy AB. He said at one time  the hand
rails were macramed (there is probably a nautical term for that) with small
stuff. Someone decided in a nuclear war environment all that would absorb
fallout so it was all cut off. I guess teak decks did not meet the concern
threshold.
Personally I'm thinking residual fallout  concerns would not make the top 5.
Michael Grosh
#220

On Tue, Feb 15, 2022, 17:48 R Kirk via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Michael... Thanks for asking. I see Gordon beat me to it and already
> answered your question, and nicely at that. I can’t remember the teak being
> as thick as he said – it seemed only 1-2 inches thick to me at the edges,
> but that was long ago and maybe the Iowa’s teak had been holystoned a lot.
> I can remember watching (I was a super-lucky freshman midshipman and got
> out of that detail*) a gang of mids, shoulder to shoulder, each moving a
> boiler firebrick back and forth at the end of broomstick, in unison. They
> moved to the next board on signal from the boatswain. The deck glowed.
> Interesting aside: Doctrine said that teak deck coverings were only for
> peacetime decoration and were to be removed for safety (splinters & fire)
> to bare steel deck in time of war. Nonetheless, when Vietnam later came
> along, the battleships that went there (USS NJ & ?)  kept their teak. Shows
> how much they were concerned about that war, I guess.... Bob
> *I paid for it later - steel-wooling the bare steel main passageway
> "Broadway" in the engineering section on my hands & knees. Starting forward
> on Monday and reaching aft on Friday -by which time the forward end would
> start to rust  again.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net>
> To: R Kirk <isobar at verizon.net>; public-list at lists.alberg30.org <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: greg at midnight-oil.us <greg at midnight-oil.us>
> Sent: Tue, Feb 15, 2022 12:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] What finish to use on teak cockpit seats
>
>   Mr. Kirk,
>    Iowa Class Battleships, honestly!  Very cool.  When I was studying
> these ships I was shocked that there was enough teak left in the world to
> deck them in teak. Do you have some idea of how thick it was and how it was
> attached to the steel underneath? Mastic?   Michael #133
>   On 02/15/2022 8:31 AM R Kirk <isobar at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
>   I have known a number of people with teak decks and they either cleaned
> and left the teak raw(bright) or cleaned and used MoldArmour to keep them
> bright. I know you are not talking about decks here.
>   gg Of course, the right way to clean teak decks to a lustrous finish is
> to use an endless supply of sailors rubbing sand & seawater across the
> deck, in unison & rhythm, with holystones. Repeat weekly until the teak is
> worn enough to replace. (USS Iowa 1956 experience)
>
>
>   -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Connolly via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net>; Greg Roberts <
> greg at midnight-oil.us>
> Sent: Mon, Feb 14, 2022 10:17 pm
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] What finish to use on teak cockpit seats
>
>   Greg,
> I have known a number of people with teak decks and they either cleaned
> and left the teak raw(bright) or cleaned and used MoldArmour to keep them
> bright. I know you are not talking about decks here.  Steve has a point,
> Teak oil if used (sparingly) will saturate the teak and bring out the
> tone.  Too much teak oil and you end up with basically an oil finish which
> looses its non-skid effect. Oil finishes are much easier to care for than
> full blown bright varnish. Teak oil is an oil finish and will support mold
> growth, esp in the southern climes.  My experience is with sweet water
> boats.  Salt water southern climes are another story entirely.
>
> I would strongly caution you and head in a new direction only after you
> have throughly investigated what is best for the climate where you normally
> sail. Also remember KISS = Keep it simple stupid.  Whatever you add to your
> teak you are adding to its maintenance = less time enjoying sailing on the
> water.  Personally I liked the Herreshoff design with all the teak treated
> with Mould Armour.  This guy was from Chicago, IL and applied the Mould
> Armopur once a season ....like in May and I saw his boat in late August and
> it looked like he had just cleaned the bright (raw) Teak.  I questioned him
> extensively and he had been doing this process for the past ten years with
> very nice results and not much labor to boot.
>
> How often do you clean your teak?  My Dad had a CC Constellation with teak
> decks. He cleaned them two or three times a season.  He purchased the boat
> in 1967 and sold it in 1976 and the decks looked the same when he sold it
> as when he bought it. Again this was a Great Lakes boat. Greg what you have
> now.... raw Teak is the simplest for maintenance you can get.
>
> Good luck,
> Let the group know what you try and what results you get.
> Michael #133
> > On 02/14/2022 12:12 PM Greg Roberts via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > I have solid teak seats/lazarette hatches that I've left raw for
> > non-skid reasons. What, if any finish have folks used that doesn't
> > create a slick surface when wet? I'd like them to look better but
> > safety first...
> > Regards,
> > Greg
> > Ayla
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