[Public-List] Teak Inlays

[Michael Devonshire]

Beautiful- thanks!
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 19, 2024, at 6:45 AM, Greg Hounsell via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> That's great!
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Greg
> 592
> 
>> On Sun, May 19, 2024, 1:10 a.m. Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Here are some pictures of my cockpit seats under construction:
>> 
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>> 
>> I gouged out the existing teak plywood with a dull chisel. Some was rotten,
>> some was be very solid. The cavity remaining was about 3/4" deep (if I
>> recall correctly), with 45  degree slopes around the edges.
>> 
>> This is one of the rare occasions where I has to buy teak as opposed to
>> using reclaimed teak. I planed it down a bit with a thickness planer (not
>> mine). If I was doing it again, I would have planed it less, and left the
>> wood a bit raised relative to the fiberglass, so water would drain better,
>> and so I could sand more.
>> 
>> I cut the teak in the pattern shown in the photos. 4 edge pieces with
>> bevels on one side, and two middle pieces. Only on piece is actually a
>> rectangle. I wouldn't change the basic design if I was doing it again, it's
>> well nigh perfect.
>> 
>> Measure twice and cut once they say.
>> I measured about 10 times before cutting, and I still made mistakes.
>> Measure at least 20 times, and make sure you get the angles right. I used
>> the lengths and a bit of trigonometry to get the angles; more accurate than
>> a protractor.
>> 
>> Two of the corners are 90 degrees. The other two are slightly larger and
>> slightly smaller. Something like 94 and 86 degrees. I don’t remember
>> exactly. Half that is 47 and 43. Although I had a very good compound
>> mistress saw (still not mine) I kept on dialing in 47 when meant 43 and
>> vice versa. So some of the long edge pieces became short edge pieces. But
>> if I had made one more mistake, I would have had to buy more teak. To make
>> the cut on the long angled piece was left slightly overlong, screwed at the
>> ends to a throwaway board at just the right angle, and then run the table
>> saw. Then it was cut to length, cutting off the screw holes.
>> 
>> Other than the mistakes, I'm mostly pretty happy with the design. But I cut
>> with the idea that the gaps bewitched the boards would be 3/16". If I was
>> doing it again, I'd do it with 3/8" gaps. First because the one or two
>> 1/16" mistakes I made wouldn't show as much, second because getting the
>> epoxy into the gaps would have been easier.
>> 
>> Speaking of epoxy... I used West System Gflex, tinted black using West
>> System black pigment. I taped off the edges first. Then I coated the inside
>> of the depression in the fiberglass. I carefully placed the boards and
>> squished them in to the goo. Epoxy doesn't need clamping to be strong, so
>> just left them there overnight.
>> 
>> The next day I mixed up more Gflex and and pigment, and filled in the gaps.
>> This was a bit tiresome; I used a syringe. Bigger gaps would make this much
>> easier, and resulted in fewer bubbles.
>> 
>> When it was done, I removed the tape and cleaned up a few mistakes with
>> acetone.
>> 
>> When all was thoroughly set, I sanded everything level. Teak is hard! I
>> used a belt sander to start, then moved down to a palm sander, then sanded
>> the last few scratch marks out by hand.
>> 
>> I did the initial removal of the teak on the boat, because that kept the
>> lids in place. But it was January, so I did the epoxying stage inside. I
>> worked on the living room coffee table as you can see in the pictures. I
>> left sheets of plywood over the locker openings.
>> 
>> I hope that helps. Overall, I'm medium satisfied with the result after 6
>> years. But, I could do a better job if I was doing it again.
>> 
>> SG
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>> 
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