[Public-List] seacocks

Mon Sep 16 05:54:22 PDT 2024

Wade,

There is no need to epoxy anything. Set the new thru-hull fitting in 3M 505. Apply the "backing plate" (typicaly painted plywood) and seacock or thread adaptor or locknut. Then tighten the assembly. That's it.

Cheers,
Matt
Friendship 295

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Today's Topics:

   1. Replacing seacock in bilge (Wade Wall)
   2. Re: Replacing seacock in bilge (Michael)

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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2024 22:52:30 -0400
From: Wade Wall <wade.wall at gmail.com>
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: [Public-List] Replacing seacock in bilge
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        <CALHkh9QBo5KhhHi+axwh0P6yX5ah=WCW1PhB08uJUayVVGu_3Q at mail.gmail.com>
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Hi all,

I am pulling my Alberg 30 next week to replace all the seacocks. Yes, I still have some gate valves! I am replacing with groco flanged valves with backing plates. From what I have seen, it looks like most do a dry run, then epoxy the backing plate on with the thru hull and seacock dry fit (with wax to protect from the epoxy) and the the seacock and the thru hull are attached with sikaflex or life seal. I don't want to do this because I know all the bronze bolts will end up drop in the bilge. Is there any downside to attaching the backing plate to the seacock, epoxying the backing plate, with wax on the thru hull, and then removing the thru hull and applying sikaflex? This way, I would only have to mess with the backing plate and seacock once, when epoxying. Does this make sense?
Would like to hear any suggestions.

Btw, ai have a hard time replying to this list serve for some reason, but love reading everything.

Sincerely,

Wade Wall

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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2024 12:34:31 +0000
From: Michael <dickdurk at gmail.com>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Replacing seacock in bilge
Message-ID: <eme4666a64-3e05-4183-8aad-dfd493d961cb at 5a972035.com>
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it's the thru hulls that should be the target for replacement. The originals are just...bad. it is not clear to me you are replacing thru hulls here. You have found proper machine thread thru hulls to match the thread on the sea cocks?
  Sea cocks are sort of optimized for mounting on wood hulls, I guess that is where the bolts in your application come in, bolting to the back up plate. I just screwed my seacocks onto the thru hulls, solid back up plate-marine ply (doing again, I would consider coosa board), with 5200 as the sealant. 4200 may be the smart move, I don't think epoxy is necessary or appropriate I don't see a real world need to secure seacocks with bolts, but lag bolts to a thick plate are about as good as you are going to get, structurally, The Alberg hull is really thick, and solid 'glass.
Getting the bevel angle right for flush thru hulls is the hardest part.
Some kind of counter sink tool would be useful, in 3 sizes. I used a file.
Anyway, it looks to me you are proposing a lot of effort, for marginal gain. All that stuff just needs to be put together once.

Michael Grosh
#220

------ Original Message ------
>From "Wade Wall via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Cc "Wade Wall" <wade.wall at gmail.com>
Date 9/13/2024 10:52:30 PM
Subject [Public-List] Replacing seacock in bilge

>Hi all,
>
>I am pulling my Alberg 30 next week to replace all the seacocks. Yes, I
>still have some gate valves! I am replacing with groco flanged valves
>with backing plates. From what I have seen, it looks like most do a dry
>run, then epoxy the backing plate on with the thru hull and seacock dry
>fit (with wax to protect from the epoxy) and the the seacock and the
>thru hull are attached with sikaflex or life seal. I don't want to do
>this because I know all the bronze bolts will end up drop in the bilge.
>Is there any downside to attaching the backing plate to the seacock,
>epoxying the backing plate, with wax on the thru hull, and then
>removing the thru hull and applying sikaflex? This way, I would only
>have to mess with the backing plate and seacock once, when epoxying. Does this make sense?
>Would like to hear any suggestions.
>
>Btw, ai have a hard time replying to this list serve for some reason,
>but love reading everything.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Wade Wall
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