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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John: </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I painted #499 "One Less Traveled" this summer and
followed almost completely the advice Jim Davis gave below. He is right on
the money. I would dare say that the Interlux paint looks good at about 5
feet--and I am no perfectionist when it came to preparation and attention to
detail.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Weather and temperature are crucial to a nice
finish. <FONT face=Arial size=2>In my case I did not thin the paint at all. I
had some difficulty when the temperature got above 80 degrees in the direct
sunlight--the Interlux didn't flow that well, but I was able to correct my
mistakes easily. Runs can be sanded and touched up.</FONT> And I agree that the
job can be done by one person, since the area you're working in small enough.
This might change if you decided to paint the hull, but for the deck, one person
is enough.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I used the yellow close-pore foam rollers, in 3"
and 2" sizes sold at Loews as trim brushes. These rollers give great
results when tipped with a foam brush. After painting the deck, I tackled the
non-skid with a good quality brush for the edging, and then fresh rollers for
the open areas. I didn't tape the non-skid, just the deck hardware and
portholes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I used Interlux Brightside Offwhite, and then Grand
Banks Beige for the non-skid with the Interlux polymer grit. It worked great.
For the trouble and the results, I would definitely go with a one part paint.
Plus the cost. You will probably need, one quart can of Brightside
primer for the deck. It may take more than one quart of paint for the
deck, and then another color for the non-skid. At about $24 (sometimes on
sale for $19) a can for one-part, I think you can't beat it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I am pleased with the Off-white color. There
doesn't seem to be too much glare and the Beige really hides dirt and contrast
nicely with the wood, etc. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Just like Jim says, though, surface prep is very
important.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe #499</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>"One Less Traveled"</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:a30240@earthlink.net" title=a30240@earthlink.net>James
Davis</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A href="mailto:alberg30@egroups.com"
title=alberg30@egroups.com>alberg30@egroups.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 06, 2000 7:34
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [alberg30] Painting</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have painted Isa Lei #240 using
Brightside. I used the roll and tip method. I am quite happy with
the results, it looks good from about 10 feet. The trick, at least in my
opinion, is to use the yellow rollers made for West Epoxy. Cut them in
half and use a good bristle brush. One person can do the job because
with the smaller roller you can't cover a large area. It calls for
quick, not hasty, work. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To insure success you want to pick your weather,
not real hot and paint in the morning. Give the paint all afternoon to
dry. This way it is fairly hard before dew has a chance to settle on it
overnight. Also make sure you do a good job of sanding - I do the
final with 220 wet. Just before putting the pain on, wipe the hull down
with lacquer thinner - it won't hurt the paint but will remove any oils that
have collected.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jim Davis</FONT></DIV>
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